Difference between revisions of "AC Power Supply"

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For observatories with heaters and long DC power cable runs the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-300 Meanwell HRP-300-12] is recommended as it's remote sense functionality allows it to compensate for any voltage drop in the long cable runs. (If no heaters are present, the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-150 Meanwell HRP-150-12] is the preferred option.)
 
For observatories with heaters and long DC power cable runs the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-300 Meanwell HRP-300-12] is recommended as it's remote sense functionality allows it to compensate for any voltage drop in the long cable runs. (If no heaters are present, the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-150 Meanwell HRP-150-12] is the preferred option.)
 +
 +
Direct links to order Meanwell HRP-300-12 from USA:
 +
 +
[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HRP-300-12?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdqMP%2FaZ%252BGCqLV2Ez6D3hU HRP-300-12, Mouser Electronics]
 +
 +
[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HRP-300-12.shtml HRP-300-12, TRC Electronics]
 +
 +
Accessories for Meanwell HRP-300-12:
 +
 +
[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/TRC/TRC-E-HRP300450600.shtml TRC-E-HRP300450600 enclosure for HRP-300-12]
 +
 +
[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Tumbler/32V86S.shtml US/Canada power cord for HRP-300-12]
 +
 
[[File:Power supply wiring with remote voltage sense.svg|none|thumb|640x640px|Power supply wiring with remote sense for long cable runs.]]
 
[[File:Power supply wiring with remote voltage sense.svg|none|thumb|640x640px|Power supply wiring with remote sense for long cable runs.]]
  
Line 9: Line 22:
 
That cabling doesn't have a twisted pair, so we recommend wiring up the conductors to the green numbering in the two images below.   
 
That cabling doesn't have a twisted pair, so we recommend wiring up the conductors to the green numbering in the two images below.   
  
−
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring power supply side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the power supply side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)]]
+
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring power supply side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the power supply side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
−
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring observatory side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the observatory power plug side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)]]
+
You should use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2107-blue-3mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/ Blue 3mm Fork Crimps] to terminate the conductors for L,N,E,-V and +V.
 +
This power supply should be installed in a metal enclosure which should be connected via grounding studs to the Earth terminal. The enclosure's door or access panel also needs to be connected.
 +
See the Meanwell HRP datasheet for sense connector details.]]
 +
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring observatory side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the observatory power plug side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
 +
Conductors 1 and 6 will need to be soldered to the side of C and B if thick conductors are used.
 +
The transition from insulated wire to contact needs to be covered by heat shrink to prevent short circuits if the cable subject to twisting torques.]]
 +
 
 +
=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
 +
<gallery mode="packed" heights="200">
 +
File:20190724_212110.jpg|
 +
File:20190724_212620.jpg|
 +
File:20190724_212709.jpg|
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
=== Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package ===
 +
If you need to build your own long cable with (using the cable listed above) you can request a ''Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package'' from [[Getting Help|us]]. It should contain:
 +
[[File:Long DC cable connector care package.png|none|thumb|920x920px]]
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!Item #
 +
!Part
 +
!Quantity
 +
!Manufacturer
 +
!Manufacturer Part Number
 +
!Example Supplier Link 1
 +
!Example Supplier Link 2
 +
|-
 +
|1
 +
|MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug, 14S-2S insert
 +
|1
 +
|various
 +
 
 +
(Amphenol Industrial)
 +
|various
 +
 
 +
(MS4106F-14S-2S-624)
 +
|https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-industrial-operations/MS3106F-14S-2S/MS3106F14S-2S-ND/378649
 +
|https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982465/
 +
|-
 +
|2
 +
|PG13.5 cable gland adaptor for size 14 MIL-DTL-5015 compatible  plug
 +
|1
 +
|Amphenol Industrial
 +
|97B-14S-PG13.5-624
 +
|DFN Camera Help
 +
|Amphenol Industrial (minimum order quantity will apply)
 +
|-
 +
|3
 +
|PG13.5 cable gland
 +
|1
 +
|various
 +
|various
 +
|https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/cable-and-cord-grips/492?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv121=385758&pv121=385768&sf=1&FV=-8%7C492&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
 +
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4318A-6-12mm-eg13.5-pg13.5-black-ip68-cable-gland/
 +
|-
 +
|4
 +
|≈10mm length of 3 mm yellow heatshrink tubing
 +
|2
 +
|various
 +
|various
 +
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5
 +
|≈10mm length of 3 mm black heatshrink tubing
 +
|2
 +
|various
 +
|various
 +
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6
 +
|≈10mm length of 5 mm heatshrink tubing (may be required if 3 mm tubing doesn't fit over contacts "C" and "B")
 +
|0-2
 +
|various
 +
|various
 +
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0913a-black-5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7
 +
|Power supply connector
 +
|1
 +
|Hirose
 +
|DF11-2DS-2C
 +
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/DF11-8DS-2C/H2022-ND/141255
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8
 +
|≈10mm length of 3 mm heatshrink tubing
 +
|2
 +
|various
 +
|various
 +
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|9
 +
|≈10mm length of 1.5 mm heatshrink tubing
 +
|2
 +
|various
 +
|various
 +
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0910a-black-1.5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10
 +
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, red, cut in half
 +
|1
 +
|Hirose
 +
|H3BBT-10106-R6
 +
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-R6/H3BBT-10106-R6-ND/310537
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|11
 +
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, black, cut in half
 +
|1
 +
|Hirose
 +
|H3BBT-10106-B6
 +
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-B6/H3BBT-10106-B6-ND/310505
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|12
 +
|Blue 4 mm fork crimp terminal
 +
|7
 +
|various
 +
|various
 +
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2082a-blue-4mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
=== Long DC Cable Assembly ===
 +
[[File:20190918 114454.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut around cable jacket about 50 mm back from cable end, careful only to cut jacket and do not nick wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 114512.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Bend cable and carefully slice away jacket without nicking wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 114635.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Pull off jacket to reveal wires.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 114658.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut fibrous centre reinforcement.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115321.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|End should now look like this.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115757.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This sort of wire stripper and cutter is recommended. Ensure it is sharp otherwise you'll have a hard time inserting the mangled conductor into the crimp contacts.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115538.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Trim wires back using wire cutters and place cable gland (without nut) onto cable.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115612.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place cable gland adaptor on cable and screw together with cable gland.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115724.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip ends for crimp contacts.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the correct crimp tool for the contacts, or solder the connections. Pliers won't work.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Set your crimp tool to the correct setting on the coloured wheel on the back (red on ours). Insert your crimp contacts into the tool.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115836.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Ensure the contact is fully inserted and crimp fully without stopping.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 115848.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This is what a good crimp looks like. Ensure the wire is visible in the hole. If not, then you didn't strip enough insulation of or insert the wire deep enough.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 120819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Crimp the other power contacts.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 122415.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing, yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 122350.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshink over the wires, taking care to use the correct colours (yellow for +12V and black for GND) and to bundle the voltage sense wires inside the heatshrink with their corresponding power contacts (which they will be soldered to later).]]
 +
[[File:20190918 120735.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the contact insertion tool to push the contacts into the plug.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 122718.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Insert the contacts, grip around the skinny part initially before moving back to the crimp part to avoid bending the contacts. If you do bend the contacts, cut the wires and start again. Do not straighten bent contacts.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 121758.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use our soldering station to solder the voltage sense wires to the power contacts.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123025.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place a blob of solder on the side of the crimp part of the two power contacts where the voltage sense wires will be attached.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123050.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the voltage sense wires.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 122938.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123119.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Press the wire to the contact with tweezers and reflow the solder to make the connection.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123215.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this. The solder joints should look smoother and shinier than this though.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123318.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Push the heatshrink tubing up to cover the contacts.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123427.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use a hot air station to shrink the heatshink tubing. You can use a hot air gun or a lighter instead.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123442.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Shrink the tubing with hot air. Take care not to melt the insulation.]]
 +
 
 +
Your connector should now look like this:
 +
<gallery mode="packed" heights="300">
 +
File:20190918_123513.jpg|
 +
File:20190918_123550.jpg|
 +
File:20190918_123612.jpg|
 +
</gallery>
 +
[[File:20190918 123625.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Slide up the adaptor and cable gland.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123725.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tighten the cable gland adaptor onto the connector. It can be helpful to mate the plug with a fireball observatory when doing this.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123729.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|After tightening the gland adaptor onto the plug, and the gland onto the adaptor, tighten the cable gland to clamp onto the cable. Doing this in the correct order is important to ensure that the wires aren't forcefully twisted inside the plug, which could cause a short circuit.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123756.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The gland should clamp the cable securely like this.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 123806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The plug should now look like this.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 124546.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut the long DC cable to the required length and strip the jacket from the other end.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 124546.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|You will need to strip the jacket from a longer length.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 124812.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut out the centre material.]]
 +
 
 +
[[File:20190918 140828.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut a ≈30 mm length of ≈10 mm heat shrink (glue lined if available) to provide strain relief for the wires exiting the jacket.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 140939.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the thick heatshink over the end of the jacket.]]
 +
 
 +
 
 +
[[File:20190918 125003.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut some ≈10 mm lengths of 1.5-3 mm heatshrink for the voltage sense wires.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 124842.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut some ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing which will be used to label the fork crimps. Use yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 125102.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshrink on the wires ensuring that the colours correctly match the pins at the other end. You can use the continuity checker (beep) functionality of a multimeter to check which wire is connected to which pin.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 135624.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip the power wires for the 4 mm fork terminals.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 135630.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use a crimp tool for insulated terminals like this to crimp the fork terminals onto the ends of the wires. Ensure that the labelling heat shrink doesn't fall off. Use a ratcheting crimp tool like this with a good quality die. Do not use a non-ratcheting crimp tool made from two pieces of stamped steel.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 135819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut back the voltage sense wires about 50 mm and strip about 5 mm.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 140019.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut the pre-crimped DF-11 jumper cables in half and trim to about 20 mm longer than the off-cuts from the voltage sense wires (a length of about 70 mm). Strip about 5 mm from the ends of the jumper wires.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 140158.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the stripped ends of the voltage sense wires and jumper wires.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 140254.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Join the wires and reflow the solder with the soldering iron.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 140334.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The joints should look something like this.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 140355.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Slide the thin heatshrink tubing down to the joint use hot air to shrink.]]
 +
[[File:20190918 140948.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Shrink the strain relief heatshrink tubing as well, lining up the centre of the heatshrink tubing up with the end of the jacket.]]
 +
 
 +
add df 11 stuff
 +
 
 +
[[File:20190918 141031.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The long DC cable is now complete and the power supply end should look like this.]]

Latest revision as of 17:47, 24 October 2019

The power supply recommended for AC powered installations where the observatory is located close to the AC power supply is the Meanwell GST120A12.

For observatories with heaters and long DC power cable runs the Meanwell HRP-300-12 is recommended as it's remote sense functionality allows it to compensate for any voltage drop in the long cable runs. (If no heaters are present, the Meanwell HRP-150-12 is the preferred option.)

Direct links to order Meanwell HRP-300-12 from USA:

HRP-300-12, Mouser Electronics

HRP-300-12, TRC Electronics

Accessories for Meanwell HRP-300-12:

TRC-E-HRP300450600 enclosure for HRP-300-12

US/Canada power cord for HRP-300-12

Power supply wiring with remote sense for long cable runs.

Outdoor Cable

The recommended off the shelf for use on roofs or outdoor structures is the sunlight and abrasion resistant AlphaWire EcoFlex PUR 80045 SL005 (unshielded) or 80145 SL005 (braid shield). Digi-Key usually has one or the other in stock: 80045 SL005, 80145 SL005.

That cabling doesn't have a twisted pair, so we recommend wiring up the conductors to the green numbering in the two images below.

Recommended wiring on the power supply side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables) You should use Blue 3mm Fork Crimps to terminate the conductors for L,N,E,-V and +V. This power supply should be installed in a metal enclosure which should be connected via grounding studs to the Earth terminal. The enclosure's door or access panel also needs to be connected. See the Meanwell HRP datasheet for sense connector details.
Recommended wiring on the observatory power plug side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables) Conductors 1 and 6 will need to be soldered to the side of C and B if thick conductors are used. The transition from insulated wire to contact needs to be covered by heat shrink to prevent short circuits if the cable subject to twisting torques.

Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada

  • 20190724 212110.jpg
  • 20190724 212620.jpg
  • 20190724 212709.jpg

Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package

If you need to build your own long cable with (using the cable listed above) you can request a Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package from us. It should contain:

Long DC cable connector care package.png
Item # Part Quantity Manufacturer Manufacturer Part Number Example Supplier Link 1 Example Supplier Link 2
1 MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug, 14S-2S insert 1 various

(Amphenol Industrial)

various

(MS4106F-14S-2S-624)

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-industrial-operations/MS3106F-14S-2S/MS3106F14S-2S-ND/378649 https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982465/
2 PG13.5 cable gland adaptor for size 14 MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug 1 Amphenol Industrial 97B-14S-PG13.5-624 DFN Camera Help Amphenol Industrial (minimum order quantity will apply)
3 PG13.5 cable gland 1 various various https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/cable-and-cord-grips/492?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv121=385758&pv121=385768&sf=1&FV=-8%7C492&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25 https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4318A-6-12mm-eg13.5-pg13.5-black-ip68-cable-gland/
4 ≈10mm length of 3 mm yellow heatshrink tubing 2 various various https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
5 ≈10mm length of 3 mm black heatshrink tubing 2 various various https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
6 ≈10mm length of 5 mm heatshrink tubing (may be required if 3 mm tubing doesn't fit over contacts "C" and "B") 0-2 various various https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0913a-black-5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
7 Power supply connector 1 Hirose DF11-2DS-2C https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/DF11-8DS-2C/H2022-ND/141255
8 ≈10mm length of 3 mm heatshrink tubing 2 various various https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
9 ≈10mm length of 1.5 mm heatshrink tubing 2 various various https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0910a-black-1.5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
10 DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, red, cut in half 1 Hirose H3BBT-10106-R6 https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-R6/H3BBT-10106-R6-ND/310537
11 DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, black, cut in half 1 Hirose H3BBT-10106-B6 https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-B6/H3BBT-10106-B6-ND/310505
12 Blue 4 mm fork crimp terminal 7 various various https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2082a-blue-4mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/

Long DC Cable Assembly

Cut around cable jacket about 50 mm back from cable end, careful only to cut jacket and do not nick wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.
Bend cable and carefully slice away jacket without nicking wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.
Pull off jacket to reveal wires.
Cut fibrous centre reinforcement.
End should now look like this.
This sort of wire stripper and cutter is recommended. Ensure it is sharp otherwise you'll have a hard time inserting the mangled conductor into the crimp contacts.
Trim wires back using wire cutters and place cable gland (without nut) onto cable.
Place cable gland adaptor on cable and screw together with cable gland.
Strip ends for crimp contacts.
Use the correct crimp tool for the contacts, or solder the connections. Pliers won't work.
Set your crimp tool to the correct setting on the coloured wheel on the back (red on ours). Insert your crimp contacts into the tool.
Ensure the contact is fully inserted and crimp fully without stopping.
This is what a good crimp looks like. Ensure the wire is visible in the hole. If not, then you didn't strip enough insulation of or insert the wire deep enough.
Crimp the other power contacts.
Cut ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing, yellow for +12V and black for GND.
Place the heatshink over the wires, taking care to use the correct colours (yellow for +12V and black for GND) and to bundle the voltage sense wires inside the heatshrink with their corresponding power contacts (which they will be soldered to later).
Use the contact insertion tool to push the contacts into the plug.
Insert the contacts, grip around the skinny part initially before moving back to the crimp part to avoid bending the contacts. If you do bend the contacts, cut the wires and start again. Do not straighten bent contacts.
We will now use our soldering station to solder the voltage sense wires to the power contacts.
Place a blob of solder on the side of the crimp part of the two power contacts where the voltage sense wires will be attached.
Tin the voltage sense wires.
Your connector should now look like this.
Press the wire to the contact with tweezers and reflow the solder to make the connection.
Your connector should now look like this. The solder joints should look smoother and shinier than this though.
Push the heatshrink tubing up to cover the contacts.
We will now use a hot air station to shrink the heatshink tubing. You can use a hot air gun or a lighter instead.
Shrink the tubing with hot air. Take care not to melt the insulation.

Your connector should now look like this:

  • 20190918 123513.jpg
  • 20190918 123550.jpg
  • 20190918 123612.jpg
Slide up the adaptor and cable gland.
Tighten the cable gland adaptor onto the connector. It can be helpful to mate the plug with a fireball observatory when doing this.
After tightening the gland adaptor onto the plug, and the gland onto the adaptor, tighten the cable gland to clamp onto the cable. Doing this in the correct order is important to ensure that the wires aren't forcefully twisted inside the plug, which could cause a short circuit.
The gland should clamp the cable securely like this.
The plug should now look like this.
Cut the long DC cable to the required length and strip the jacket from the other end.
You will need to strip the jacket from a longer length.
Cut out the centre material.
Cut a ≈30 mm length of ≈10 mm heat shrink (glue lined if available) to provide strain relief for the wires exiting the jacket.
Place the thick heatshink over the end of the jacket.


Cut some ≈10 mm lengths of 1.5-3 mm heatshrink for the voltage sense wires.
Cut some ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing which will be used to label the fork crimps. Use yellow for +12V and black for GND.
Place the heatshrink on the wires ensuring that the colours correctly match the pins at the other end. You can use the continuity checker (beep) functionality of a multimeter to check which wire is connected to which pin.
Strip the power wires for the 4 mm fork terminals.
Use a crimp tool for insulated terminals like this to crimp the fork terminals onto the ends of the wires. Ensure that the labelling heat shrink doesn't fall off. Use a ratcheting crimp tool like this with a good quality die. Do not use a non-ratcheting crimp tool made from two pieces of stamped steel.
Cut back the voltage sense wires about 50 mm and strip about 5 mm.
Cut the pre-crimped DF-11 jumper cables in half and trim to about 20 mm longer than the off-cuts from the voltage sense wires (a length of about 70 mm). Strip about 5 mm from the ends of the jumper wires.
Tin the stripped ends of the voltage sense wires and jumper wires.
Join the wires and reflow the solder with the soldering iron.
The joints should look something like this.
Slide the thin heatshrink tubing down to the joint use hot air to shrink.
Shrink the strain relief heatshrink tubing as well, lining up the centre of the heatshrink tubing up with the end of the jacket.

add df 11 stuff

The long DC cable is now complete and the power supply end should look like this.
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