Rooftop Kit Camera Installation

Parts and costing

Item	Qty	Cost	Line total	Link
30m Extension Lead	1	65.81	65.81	https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-30m-x-1-5mm-heavy-duty-tradesman-extenstion-lead_p4420230
30m Outdoor Ethernet Cable	1	79	79	https://www.telcoantennas.com.au/site/cat6-outdoor-uv-f-utp-30m-ethernet-cable-esd-shielded-rj45
25m Flexible Corrugated Conduit	1.5	15.5	23.25	https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-25mm-x-20m-medium-duty-corrugated-conduit_p4330841
Roofing screws (box)	1	25.6	25.6	https://www.bunnings.com.au/buildex-m6-11-x-50mm-climacoat-hex-head-higrip-with-seal-roof-zip-screws-100-box_p2408383
Conduit Saddles	4	0.42	1.68	https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-25mm-metal-half-saddle_p4330862
Silicon Sealant	1	17.38	17.38	https://www.bunnings.com.au/sika-300ml-premium-white-swimming-pool-silicone-sealant_p3090148
Junction Box	1	19	19	https://www.bunnings.com.au/excalibur-red-ip55-outdoor-extension-lead-safety-box_p4330509
Other Consumables	1	20	20
Total			251.72

For first camera, cost per camera is lower

Basic rooftop installation procedure

We normally slit a flexible conduit lengthwise and then push a UV and weather resistant builders extension cord into it (to avoid chopping and replacing the end plug on the waterproof cord). I would suggest putting the UV resistant ethernet cable inside that as well. https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-25mm-x-20m-medium-duty-corrugated-conduit_p4330841

Because you're using ethernet and there probably won't be any junction box for that, I would attach the power cables, junction box for the power plugs (https://www.bunnings.com.au/excalibur-red-ip55-outdoor-extension-lead-safety-box_p4330509) and ethernet to the camera on the ground so you don't have to plug the ethernet in on the roof. (When we don't have ethernet we bring the power cable up after the camera is mounted.)

We test the camera on the ground and mount it to the stand. The fewer things you have to do on the roof, the better.

It might be hard to carry the camera up the ladder with the cables attached so get someone to help you, or pull it up with a rope tied to the stand.

It's best to put the camera at the peak of the roof (often easier to work at the peak as well). We select the site based on the view and safety for anyone on the roof. It's good if you can find a good view on a high point away from any edges where if the person on the roof slipped and fell they would slide down to a shallower roof section, flat section, railing or only a short drop. It's probably less of a concern for you, since you'll have ethernet, so you won't need to go up there to change drives.

Then we remove one roofing bolt at the peak of the roof where we want the camera, place the roof mount over the hole and replace the bolt. I add an extra rubber roofing washer between the mount and the roof, so there are two washers on that bolt (bolt head, rubber washer, mount, rubber washer, roof) Usually the same bolt can be used because the mount only adds 3-5mm (including the extra washer), but a longer one could be necessary. It's often helpful to have spare (new) roofing bolts so that you can use the brand new washers off them. Sometimes the old ones on the roof are brittle and crumbly. It's helpful to know whether the tin roof has metal or wooden beams, or just take both types of bolts (what we do if we remember). https://www.bunnings.com.au/buildex-12-14-x-50mm-climaseal-hex-head-hi-grip-with-seal-roofing-tek-screws-50-pack_p2425666 or https://www.bunnings.com.au/buildex-12-11-x-50mm-climaseal-hex-head-with-seal-timber-tek-screws-100-box_p2417005(you might need various lengths).

Now that the camera and mount are bolted to the roof by the one bolt at the top of the mount, you can do any final tests on the camera to make sure that it is working and has network connectivity. You can also tuck the connection box away under the mount and zip tie it in place.

Then you use the silicone sealant to affix the folded down sides of the mount to the bottom of the troughs in the corrugated metal roof. Make sure you use water and UV resistant flexible sealant (like http://www.selleys.com.au/sealants/silicone/roof-gutter/) and not something that dries hard (because it might need to be removed at some point and the silicon sealant can be removed with no trace).

Then all you need to do is secure the conduit along the roof and down to the power point. We use P clamps https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-20mm-metal-conduit-mounting-half-saddle_p4330861 and zip ties. Just be careful not to add holes where it might compromise the roof. We just add small ones on the edges of the metal sheets. If you don't want to drill any holes on top of the roof, silicon sealant is another option for securing the conduit run down the flat roof.

Oh, one last thing. So that you only have one plug instead of two, you might want to connect the two ends of the IEC leads to a single DIY UK replacement plug (AUS version:https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-10a-8mm-clear-3-pin-electrical-plug-top_p4330008) This lets you use a small connection box like the one above. I'm not sure whether you'll need an electrician to do this for you (depending on the law, actually doing it would be simple and probably only take 3 minutes).

Rooftop Mounts

(For DFNKIT cameras only at the moment. These have plastic enclosures with transparent tops.)

Editable Autodesk Inventor (free for use by "Qualified Educational Institutions") part files:

roof_mount.ipt roof angle parameter can be modified before DXF export for laser cutting

roof_mount_rib_and_pan.ipt

flat_roof_mount.ipt

DXF files (send to your nearest lasercutter and then bend with a panbrake):

For rib and pan tin roofs

For flat roofs and other structures:

IPT files (editable for different roof angles and constructions)

Media:Roof mount.ipt (main roof mount used by kit cameras, roof angle is an editable parameter)