DFN Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Standalone Fireball Camera Installation

2021-05-10T23:07:36Z

Robert Howie:

Solar powered sites - 12V system with 2-3 12V panels in parallel

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DaysHill_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Weekeroo.jpg|
File:Mt Ive DSC 4688 1600.JPG|
File:Nilpena_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Moolawatana_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Sm_DSC_2024.JPG|
File:Ingomar_camera_1200.JPG|
File:BillaKalina_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Billa Kalina DFNSMALL DSC 4279 1600.JPG|
</gallery>

Solar powered sites - new design - one large 24V panel, MPPT charging controller

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DSD_2868_1200_Gabyon_camera.jpg|
File:DSD_2872_1200_Gabyon_camera_from_back.jpg|
File:Goodlands_solar_powered_site_1200.JPG
</gallery>

= Parts =
Have the below designs laser cut. Number per installation and material are specified in the filenames.

=== Sunshield ===

DXF exports for laser cutting:

*Small DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for cold/moderate climate areas [[Media:20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf|20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf]]
** Important: the GPS antenna mount point od the small sunshield needs to be bent / dropped a bit not to block the fielad of view of the all-sky fish eye lenses. See these images: [[Media:Chiricahua Astronomy Complex Fireball Camera.jpg|Arizona DFNEXT system]], [[Media:20190725 160927.jpg|Granum camera system in Alberta, Canada]]
*Large DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for hot climate areas [[Media:20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf|20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf]]
** Similar with the large sunshield - needs to be bent, see the images above. This new design was improved by adding slits along the bend line, which makes the bending a lot easier in the field.

=== Solar Panel Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART solar support 45d MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 2.dxf|PART_solar_support_45d_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_2.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART solar support sand shoe MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 4.dxf|PART_solar_support_sand_shoe_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_4.dxf]] (in soft soil)

*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*30x30x3 Aluminium angle bar

=== Observatory Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART stand rib MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_rib_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART stand base MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_base_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf |PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*Fencing wire to construct tensioning stays

(Note: wedges are included twice as they are used by both designs but only 30 in total are required per installation.)

=== Other Parts ===

* Star picket stakes to secure the stand in soft soil, or
* Sand bags or rocks to weigh down stand in rocky terrain
* Hardware to build the fence - if applicable (see [[Standalone_Fireball_Camera_Installation#Fence|below]])

= Observatory deployment =
Plan the site orientation: solar panels pointing North and camera system box door pointing the opposite direction - South. (This is valid for the Southern hemisphere, North hemisphere is the other way.) There are a few photos on top of this page for inspiration.

== Observatory Stand Assembly ==
At least two people are recommended for assembling the stand.

# Place stand base on four blocks or bricks ensuring there is clearance for the rib and back's tabs.
# Place stand back on top of base and insert tabs.
# Lean stand back outwards and insert stand rib. You may have to wiggle the pieces until they fall into place.
# Start inserting wedges staring from the corners. Do the top first and then start on the bottom corners. It may be helpful to tilt the stand over a bit or lay it down on its side.
# Once the wedges are are all securely inserted, wire up the four fencing wire cross stays and tension by twisting using a large screwdriver.
# Align stand so stand back is facing south (in the Southern Hemisphere, north in the Northern Hemisphere).
# Stake down the stand in soft soil or weigh down the stand using rocks or sandbags. As the centre of mass is not over the centre in the base, it is not safe to leave the stand without weight or stakes.

== Solar Panel Stand Assembly ==

# Assemble solar panel stand using aluminium angle bar, wedges, panels and self tapping fasteners (Tek Screws) into the panels.
# Add sand shoes in soft soil
# Stake or weigh down solar panel stand.

== Power System ==
Components:

* Enclosure

* Deep cycle battery
* Solar charge controller
* Solar panel(s)
* Fuses and fuse holders for load and battery if not provided by solar charge controller
* Wire for connections
* Cable glands or panel mount connectors
* DFN observatory power connector
* DFN observatory DC power cable

=== Enclosure ===
The B&R Forte FR060430 has been used for all previous solar powered DFN observatory installations (unless there is an existing power supply). It is available from electrical wholesalers (e.g. [http://advanced.net.au/ Advanced Electrical Equipment], [http://electricaldistributors.com.au/ Electrical Distributors], [https://www.mmem.com.au/ MM Electrical Merchandising]) or at a higher price from [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wall-boxes/8852711 RS Components].

''Note: we always to put the battery enclosure on a couple of bricks. In case of a torrential rain, water will not get into the enclosure. Wooden blocks are not recommended, as they might get eaten by termites and collapse.''

=== Deep Cycle Battery ===
'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

The recommended battery for the DFN fireball observatories is a 140-180 AH deep cycle lead acid battery. This is the same sort of battery you would use to run a fridge in an RV or boat. AGM (absorbant glass mat) or gel constructions should be used. The DFN uses 165 or 175 AH AGM deep cycle batteries. Ensure that the battery will fit inside the Forte FR060430 with the solar charge controller. (Usable internal dimensions are a bit less than 600x400x300 mm.)

Good suppliers include:

* [http://www.independantbattery.com.au/ Independent Battery Distributors],
* [https://www.batteryworld.com.au/ Battery World], and
* [https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/ Aussie Batteries & Solar].

It is worth ordering in bulk and obtaining multiple quotes to secure a good price. Lead acid batteries will degrade if not kept charged, so it is worth charging any batteries you have in storage about every six months.

When used in a solar power application it is best to keep the [[wikipedia:Depth_of_discharge|depth of discharge]] of lead acid batteries to 30% or less to prolong the cycle life of the battery.

If the recommendations on this page are followed and the charging voltages on the solar charge controller are set correctly for your battery, your observatory's battery should last at least four years. Long life tubular gel cell batteries may offer lifetimes of 15-20 years, but have not been tested.

=== Battery Energy SunGEL Long Life Gel Battery===
[[File:SunGEL Installation and Maintenance Manual BE-MA-SG-001-02-13-07.pdf]]

[[File:Charging BE lead acid batteries.pdf]]

=== Solar Charge Controller ===
A [[wikipedia:Maximum_power_point_tracking|maximum power point tracking]] charge controller will allow you to use much better value 200-360W 60 or 72 cell 24V solar panels designed for rooftop use and available as low as $0.50 per Watt instead of 12V 65-150W solar panels designed for camping which are much more expensive (around $2 per Watt).

'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

<s>The [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15] would be a good option that seems like good value at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-75-15-charge-controller-victron-sc around $130]. Note: this charge controller may not be sufficient if the DFNEXT video camera is also in use. You will also need a [https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/ve-direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle Bluetooth smart dongle] or [https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/ve-direct-to-usb-interface USB cable] to program the battery charging voltages on the charge controller (about [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle~21407 $90] or [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-to-usb-interface $50] respectively). If installing a DFNEXT with the video camera enabled you might want to consider the [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 100/15] at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-100-15-charge-controller-victron-s around $160] in case you need to add a second panel in the future.</s>

<s>The DFN has used the [https://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SS3.IOM_.Operators_Manual.01.EN_.pdf SunSaver SS-20L-12V] with three 80-100W panels for most of its installs, but this configuration is no longer recommended due to the high cost of 12V panels compared to 60 or 72 cell 24V panels.</s>

=== Solar Panel(s) ===
A single polycrystalline panel of at least 275W is recommended. We would recommend considering the [https://www.jinkosolar.com/ftp/EN-Eagle+-275PP(Plus)-60_rev2015.pdf Jinko Solar JKM275PP-60] which is very good value at [https://sgwholesale.solar/ $0.46/W]. We have used the Jinko Solar JKM270PP-60 to power all of our off-grid FireOpal SSA observatories.

=== Fuses and Fuse Holders ===
The power system should be protected by two [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s5910a-25a-clear-blade-fuse/ 25A] automotive blade fuses placed in line with the battery and load (observatory) using [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s6036-30a-in-line-blade-fuse-holder/ blade fuse holders] (unless protection is provided by the solar charge controller—as is the case with the Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT charging controllers like [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15]).

=== Wire for connections ===
Use ≈10 AWG cable for wiring inside the battery box. Wire can be purchased from electronics shops such as [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w4158-85-0.30-heavy-duty-automotive-figure-8-cable/ Altronics] or [https://www.jaycar.com.au/25a-2-core-tinned-dc-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3087 Jaycar], or from electronic components distributors such as Mouser ([https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-RD005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7%2fq7IzrvhBjE%3d Red], [https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-BK005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7AlK53dc87ts%3d Black]).

For exterior solar panel connections use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w7015-56-0.30-4mm-42a-solar-cable/ 4mm2 UV resistant solar cable]. You will also need [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/p8600b-ip67-mc4-solar-panel-30a-line-plug-socket-connector/ MC4 connectors] and the [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=crimptool%2Bmc4 correct crimp tool]. Pre-terminated cables are also [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=solar%2Bmc4%2Blead available].

=== Cable Glands or Panel Mount Connectors ===
You will need to use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4304a-3-6.5mm-eg7-pg7-black-ip68-cable-gland/ cable glands] or panel mount MC4 connectors ([https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368622/ Male], [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368621/ Female]) to wire the solar panels through the wall of the battery box to the charge controller.

=== DFN Observatory Power Connector ===
The [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982516/ Amphenol MS3102A 14S-2P] is used on the battery box and the DFN observatory for the observatory power cable. The [https://au.element14.com/amphenol-industrial/10-040450-014/gasket-14s-14-shell-size-circular/dp/5779182 correct gasket] as well as some fastening hardware will have to be purchased separately. The mating connector which is used on the observatory power cable is [https://au.element14.com/amphenol/ms3106f14s-2s/circular-connector-plug-size-14s/dp/1849969 MS3106F 14S-2S].

=== DFN Observatory DC Power Cable ===
Make your own power cable using these instructions [[File:DFNEXT_DC_Power_Cable_Assembly.pdf]].

== Power System Wiring ==
Wire up the charge controller as specified in the charge controller's user manual.

== Set Up Observatory ==

* Bolt the observatory onto the stand
* Attach GNSS and mobile data antenna connections
* Connect power from battery box to observatory
* Secure lose wires using cable ties to stop abrasion and vibration from the wind
* Configure and test fireball observatory

== Fence ==

Building a fence around the observatory is very reasonable, especially in rural areas with cattle, sheep or goats.

Tools: you'll need fencing pliers to handle the fencing wire and gloves, especially if using barbed wire. For safety reasons we also recommend to use a special tool, called "stake driver" or "fence post driver" (available in Bunnings or Stratco [https://www.stratco.com.au/au/tools/hammers-mallets/fence-post-driver/]) rather than just a big hammer - it easier to work with and more efficient.

Material: you'll need 9+1 long stakes for the fence (we use 9 of 6foot, 1 of 5 foot, all from Bunnings). Plus 3 shorter ~ 90cm ones for the camera stand base (for solar panels stand anchoring 2 more short ones). Each corner has a vertical 6ft, and a supporting 6ft at an angle. For the gate, the 5foot is the gate one that you open, and you make a fencing wire hook/ring to close the gate. You can also use a 6foot one, upside down, but its not as good!

Regarding fencing wire - you'll need about 10m for the camera stand itself, about half as much for solar stand, plus 3-4 strands to go round the fence - barbed wire will keep the cattle off better. Fencing wire is cheap, just get a big reel, same with the barbed wire. On sites with goats we use wire mesh on the bottom of the fence and barbed wire on the top. All is available in Bunnings.

Standalone Fireball Camera Installation

2021-05-10T23:06:48Z

Robert Howie: /* Battery Energy SunGEL Long Life Sealed Lead Acid Gel Battery Information */

Solar powered sites - 12V system with 2-3 12V panels in parallel

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DaysHill_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Weekeroo.jpg|
File:Mt Ive DSC 4688 1600.JPG|
File:Nilpena_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Moolawatana_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Sm_DSC_2024.JPG|
File:Ingomar_camera_1200.JPG|
File:BillaKalina_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Billa Kalina DFNSMALL DSC 4279 1600.JPG|
</gallery>

Solar powered sites - new design - one large 24V panel, MPPT charging controller

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DSD_2868_1200_Gabyon_camera.jpg|
File:DSD_2872_1200_Gabyon_camera_from_back.jpg|
File:Goodlands_solar_powered_site_1200.JPG
</gallery>

= Parts =
Have the below designs laser cut. Number per installation and material are specified in the filenames.

=== Sunshield ===

DXF exports for laser cutting:

*Small DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for cold/moderate climate areas [[Media:20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf|20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf]]
** Important: the GPS antenna mount point od the small sunshield needs to be bent / dropped a bit not to block the fielad of view of the all-sky fish eye lenses. See these images: [[Media:Chiricahua Astronomy Complex Fireball Camera.jpg|Arizona DFNEXT system]], [[Media:20190725 160927.jpg|Granum camera system in Alberta, Canada]]
*Large DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for hot climate areas [[Media:20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf|20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf]]
** Similar with the large sunshield - needs to be bent, see the images above. This new design was improved by adding slits along the bend line, which makes the bending a lot easier in the field.

=== Solar Panel Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART solar support 45d MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 2.dxf|PART_solar_support_45d_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_2.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART solar support sand shoe MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 4.dxf|PART_solar_support_sand_shoe_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_4.dxf]] (in soft soil)

*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*30x30x3 Aluminium angle bar

=== Observatory Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART stand rib MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_rib_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART stand base MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_base_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf |PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*Fencing wire to construct tensioning stays

(Note: wedges are included twice as they are used by both designs but only 30 in total are required per installation.)

=== Other Parts ===

* Star picket stakes to secure the stand in soft soil, or
* Sand bags or rocks to weigh down stand in rocky terrain
* Hardware to build the fence - if applicable (see [[Standalone_Fireball_Camera_Installation#Fence|below]])

= Observatory deployment =
Plan the site orientation: solar panels pointing North and camera system box door pointing the opposite direction - South. (This is valid for the Southern hemisphere, North hemisphere is the other way.) There are a few photos on top of this page for inspiration.

== Observatory Stand Assembly ==
At least two people are recommended for assembling the stand.

# Place stand base on four blocks or bricks ensuring there is clearance for the rib and back's tabs.
# Place stand back on top of base and insert tabs.
# Lean stand back outwards and insert stand rib. You may have to wiggle the pieces until they fall into place.
# Start inserting wedges staring from the corners. Do the top first and then start on the bottom corners. It may be helpful to tilt the stand over a bit or lay it down on its side.
# Once the wedges are are all securely inserted, wire up the four fencing wire cross stays and tension by twisting using a large screwdriver.
# Align stand so stand back is facing south (in the Southern Hemisphere, north in the Northern Hemisphere).
# Stake down the stand in soft soil or weigh down the stand using rocks or sandbags. As the centre of mass is not over the centre in the base, it is not safe to leave the stand without weight or stakes.

== Solar Panel Stand Assembly ==

# Assemble solar panel stand using aluminium angle bar, wedges, panels and self tapping fasteners (Tek Screws) into the panels.
# Add sand shoes in soft soil
# Stake or weigh down solar panel stand.

== Power System ==
Components:

* Enclosure

* Deep cycle battery
* Solar charge controller
* Solar panel(s)
* Fuses and fuse holders for load and battery if not provided by solar charge controller
* Wire for connections
* Cable glands or panel mount connectors
* DFN observatory power connector
* DFN observatory DC power cable

=== Enclosure ===
The B&R Forte FR060430 has been used for all previous solar powered DFN observatory installations (unless there is an existing power supply). It is available from electrical wholesalers (e.g. [http://advanced.net.au/ Advanced Electrical Equipment], [http://electricaldistributors.com.au/ Electrical Distributors], [https://www.mmem.com.au/ MM Electrical Merchandising]) or at a higher price from [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wall-boxes/8852711 RS Components].

''Note: we always to put the battery enclosure on a couple of bricks. In case of a torrential rain, water will not get into the enclosure. Wooden blocks are not recommended, as they might get eaten by termites and collapse.''

=== Deep Cycle Battery ===
'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

The recommended battery for the DFN fireball observatories is a 140-180 AH deep cycle lead acid battery. This is the same sort of battery you would use to run a fridge in an RV or boat. AGM (absorbant glass mat) or gel constructions should be used. The DFN uses 165 or 175 AH AGM deep cycle batteries. Ensure that the battery will fit inside the Forte FR060430 with the solar charge controller. (Usable internal dimensions are a bit less than 600x400x300 mm.)

Good suppliers include:

* [http://www.independantbattery.com.au/ Independent Battery Distributors],
* [https://www.batteryworld.com.au/ Battery World], and
* [https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/ Aussie Batteries & Solar].

It is worth ordering in bulk and obtaining multiple quotes to secure a good price. Lead acid batteries will degrade if not kept charged, so it is worth charging any batteries you have in storage about every six months.

When used in a solar power application it is best to keep the [[wikipedia:Depth_of_discharge|depth of discharge]] of lead acid batteries to 30% or less to prolong the cycle life of the battery.

If the recommendations on this page are followed and the charging voltages on the solar charge controller are set correctly for your battery, your observatory's battery should last at least four years. Long life tubular gel cell batteries may offer lifetimes of 15-20 years, but have not been tested.

=== Battery Energy SunGEL Long Life Sealed Lead Acid Gel Battery Information===
[[File:SunGEL Installation and Maintenance Manual BE-MA-SG-001-02-13-07.pdf]]

[[File:Charging BE lead acid batteries.pdf]]

=== Solar Charge Controller ===
A [[wikipedia:Maximum_power_point_tracking|maximum power point tracking]] charge controller will allow you to use much better value 200-360W 60 or 72 cell 24V solar panels designed for rooftop use and available as low as $0.50 per Watt instead of 12V 65-150W solar panels designed for camping which are much more expensive (around $2 per Watt).

'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

<s>The [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15] would be a good option that seems like good value at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-75-15-charge-controller-victron-sc around $130]. Note: this charge controller may not be sufficient if the DFNEXT video camera is also in use. You will also need a [https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/ve-direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle Bluetooth smart dongle] or [https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/ve-direct-to-usb-interface USB cable] to program the battery charging voltages on the charge controller (about [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle~21407 $90] or [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-to-usb-interface $50] respectively). If installing a DFNEXT with the video camera enabled you might want to consider the [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 100/15] at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-100-15-charge-controller-victron-s around $160] in case you need to add a second panel in the future.</s>

<s>The DFN has used the [https://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SS3.IOM_.Operators_Manual.01.EN_.pdf SunSaver SS-20L-12V] with three 80-100W panels for most of its installs, but this configuration is no longer recommended due to the high cost of 12V panels compared to 60 or 72 cell 24V panels.</s>

=== Solar Panel(s) ===
A single polycrystalline panel of at least 275W is recommended. We would recommend considering the [https://www.jinkosolar.com/ftp/EN-Eagle+-275PP(Plus)-60_rev2015.pdf Jinko Solar JKM275PP-60] which is very good value at [https://sgwholesale.solar/ $0.46/W]. We have used the Jinko Solar JKM270PP-60 to power all of our off-grid FireOpal SSA observatories.

=== Fuses and Fuse Holders ===
The power system should be protected by two [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s5910a-25a-clear-blade-fuse/ 25A] automotive blade fuses placed in line with the battery and load (observatory) using [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s6036-30a-in-line-blade-fuse-holder/ blade fuse holders] (unless protection is provided by the solar charge controller—as is the case with the Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT charging controllers like [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15]).

=== Wire for connections ===
Use ≈10 AWG cable for wiring inside the battery box. Wire can be purchased from electronics shops such as [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w4158-85-0.30-heavy-duty-automotive-figure-8-cable/ Altronics] or [https://www.jaycar.com.au/25a-2-core-tinned-dc-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3087 Jaycar], or from electronic components distributors such as Mouser ([https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-RD005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7%2fq7IzrvhBjE%3d Red], [https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-BK005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7AlK53dc87ts%3d Black]).

For exterior solar panel connections use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w7015-56-0.30-4mm-42a-solar-cable/ 4mm2 UV resistant solar cable]. You will also need [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/p8600b-ip67-mc4-solar-panel-30a-line-plug-socket-connector/ MC4 connectors] and the [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=crimptool%2Bmc4 correct crimp tool]. Pre-terminated cables are also [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=solar%2Bmc4%2Blead available].

=== Cable Glands or Panel Mount Connectors ===
You will need to use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4304a-3-6.5mm-eg7-pg7-black-ip68-cable-gland/ cable glands] or panel mount MC4 connectors ([https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368622/ Male], [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368621/ Female]) to wire the solar panels through the wall of the battery box to the charge controller.

=== DFN Observatory Power Connector ===
The [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982516/ Amphenol MS3102A 14S-2P] is used on the battery box and the DFN observatory for the observatory power cable. The [https://au.element14.com/amphenol-industrial/10-040450-014/gasket-14s-14-shell-size-circular/dp/5779182 correct gasket] as well as some fastening hardware will have to be purchased separately. The mating connector which is used on the observatory power cable is [https://au.element14.com/amphenol/ms3106f14s-2s/circular-connector-plug-size-14s/dp/1849969 MS3106F 14S-2S].

=== DFN Observatory DC Power Cable ===
Make your own power cable using these instructions [[File:DFNEXT_DC_Power_Cable_Assembly.pdf]].

== Power System Wiring ==
Wire up the charge controller as specified in the charge controller's user manual.

== Set Up Observatory ==

* Bolt the observatory onto the stand
* Attach GNSS and mobile data antenna connections
* Connect power from battery box to observatory
* Secure lose wires using cable ties to stop abrasion and vibration from the wind
* Configure and test fireball observatory

== Fence ==

Building a fence around the observatory is very reasonable, especially in rural areas with cattle, sheep or goats.

Tools: you'll need fencing pliers to handle the fencing wire and gloves, especially if using barbed wire. For safety reasons we also recommend to use a special tool, called "stake driver" or "fence post driver" (available in Bunnings or Stratco [https://www.stratco.com.au/au/tools/hammers-mallets/fence-post-driver/]) rather than just a big hammer - it easier to work with and more efficient.

Material: you'll need 9+1 long stakes for the fence (we use 9 of 6foot, 1 of 5 foot, all from Bunnings). Plus 3 shorter ~ 90cm ones for the camera stand base (for solar panels stand anchoring 2 more short ones). Each corner has a vertical 6ft, and a supporting 6ft at an angle. For the gate, the 5foot is the gate one that you open, and you make a fencing wire hook/ring to close the gate. You can also use a 6foot one, upside down, but its not as good!

Regarding fencing wire - you'll need about 10m for the camera stand itself, about half as much for solar stand, plus 3-4 strands to go round the fence - barbed wire will keep the cattle off better. Fencing wire is cheap, just get a big reel, same with the barbed wire. On sites with goats we use wire mesh on the bottom of the fence and barbed wire on the top. All is available in Bunnings.

Standalone Fireball Camera Installation

2021-05-10T23:06:40Z

Robert Howie: /* Battery Energy SunGEL Long Life Sealed Lead Acid Gel Battery Information */

Solar powered sites - 12V system with 2-3 12V panels in parallel

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DaysHill_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Weekeroo.jpg|
File:Mt Ive DSC 4688 1600.JPG|
File:Nilpena_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Moolawatana_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Sm_DSC_2024.JPG|
File:Ingomar_camera_1200.JPG|
File:BillaKalina_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Billa Kalina DFNSMALL DSC 4279 1600.JPG|
</gallery>

Solar powered sites - new design - one large 24V panel, MPPT charging controller

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DSD_2868_1200_Gabyon_camera.jpg|
File:DSD_2872_1200_Gabyon_camera_from_back.jpg|
File:Goodlands_solar_powered_site_1200.JPG
</gallery>

= Parts =
Have the below designs laser cut. Number per installation and material are specified in the filenames.

=== Sunshield ===

DXF exports for laser cutting:

*Small DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for cold/moderate climate areas [[Media:20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf|20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf]]
** Important: the GPS antenna mount point od the small sunshield needs to be bent / dropped a bit not to block the fielad of view of the all-sky fish eye lenses. See these images: [[Media:Chiricahua Astronomy Complex Fireball Camera.jpg|Arizona DFNEXT system]], [[Media:20190725 160927.jpg|Granum camera system in Alberta, Canada]]
*Large DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for hot climate areas [[Media:20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf|20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf]]
** Similar with the large sunshield - needs to be bent, see the images above. This new design was improved by adding slits along the bend line, which makes the bending a lot easier in the field.

=== Solar Panel Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART solar support 45d MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 2.dxf|PART_solar_support_45d_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_2.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART solar support sand shoe MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 4.dxf|PART_solar_support_sand_shoe_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_4.dxf]] (in soft soil)

*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*30x30x3 Aluminium angle bar

=== Observatory Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART stand rib MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_rib_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART stand base MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_base_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf |PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*Fencing wire to construct tensioning stays

(Note: wedges are included twice as they are used by both designs but only 30 in total are required per installation.)

=== Other Parts ===

* Star picket stakes to secure the stand in soft soil, or
* Sand bags or rocks to weigh down stand in rocky terrain
* Hardware to build the fence - if applicable (see [[Standalone_Fireball_Camera_Installation#Fence|below]])

= Observatory deployment =
Plan the site orientation: solar panels pointing North and camera system box door pointing the opposite direction - South. (This is valid for the Southern hemisphere, North hemisphere is the other way.) There are a few photos on top of this page for inspiration.

== Observatory Stand Assembly ==
At least two people are recommended for assembling the stand.

# Place stand base on four blocks or bricks ensuring there is clearance for the rib and back's tabs.
# Place stand back on top of base and insert tabs.
# Lean stand back outwards and insert stand rib. You may have to wiggle the pieces until they fall into place.
# Start inserting wedges staring from the corners. Do the top first and then start on the bottom corners. It may be helpful to tilt the stand over a bit or lay it down on its side.
# Once the wedges are are all securely inserted, wire up the four fencing wire cross stays and tension by twisting using a large screwdriver.
# Align stand so stand back is facing south (in the Southern Hemisphere, north in the Northern Hemisphere).
# Stake down the stand in soft soil or weigh down the stand using rocks or sandbags. As the centre of mass is not over the centre in the base, it is not safe to leave the stand without weight or stakes.

== Solar Panel Stand Assembly ==

# Assemble solar panel stand using aluminium angle bar, wedges, panels and self tapping fasteners (Tek Screws) into the panels.
# Add sand shoes in soft soil
# Stake or weigh down solar panel stand.

== Power System ==
Components:

* Enclosure

* Deep cycle battery
* Solar charge controller
* Solar panel(s)
* Fuses and fuse holders for load and battery if not provided by solar charge controller
* Wire for connections
* Cable glands or panel mount connectors
* DFN observatory power connector
* DFN observatory DC power cable

=== Enclosure ===
The B&R Forte FR060430 has been used for all previous solar powered DFN observatory installations (unless there is an existing power supply). It is available from electrical wholesalers (e.g. [http://advanced.net.au/ Advanced Electrical Equipment], [http://electricaldistributors.com.au/ Electrical Distributors], [https://www.mmem.com.au/ MM Electrical Merchandising]) or at a higher price from [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wall-boxes/8852711 RS Components].

''Note: we always to put the battery enclosure on a couple of bricks. In case of a torrential rain, water will not get into the enclosure. Wooden blocks are not recommended, as they might get eaten by termites and collapse.''

=== Deep Cycle Battery ===
'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

The recommended battery for the DFN fireball observatories is a 140-180 AH deep cycle lead acid battery. This is the same sort of battery you would use to run a fridge in an RV or boat. AGM (absorbant glass mat) or gel constructions should be used. The DFN uses 165 or 175 AH AGM deep cycle batteries. Ensure that the battery will fit inside the Forte FR060430 with the solar charge controller. (Usable internal dimensions are a bit less than 600x400x300 mm.)

Good suppliers include:

* [http://www.independantbattery.com.au/ Independent Battery Distributors],
* [https://www.batteryworld.com.au/ Battery World], and
* [https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/ Aussie Batteries & Solar].

It is worth ordering in bulk and obtaining multiple quotes to secure a good price. Lead acid batteries will degrade if not kept charged, so it is worth charging any batteries you have in storage about every six months.

When used in a solar power application it is best to keep the [[wikipedia:Depth_of_discharge|depth of discharge]] of lead acid batteries to 30% or less to prolong the cycle life of the battery.

If the recommendations on this page are followed and the charging voltages on the solar charge controller are set correctly for your battery, your observatory's battery should last at least four years. Long life tubular gel cell batteries may offer lifetimes of 15-20 years, but have not been tested.

=== Battery Energy SunGEL Long Life Sealed Lead Acid Gel Battery Information===
[[File:SunGEL Installation and Maintenance Manual BE-MA-SG-001-02-13-07.pdf]]
[[File:Charging BE lead acid batteries.pdf]]

=== Solar Charge Controller ===
A [[wikipedia:Maximum_power_point_tracking|maximum power point tracking]] charge controller will allow you to use much better value 200-360W 60 or 72 cell 24V solar panels designed for rooftop use and available as low as $0.50 per Watt instead of 12V 65-150W solar panels designed for camping which are much more expensive (around $2 per Watt).

'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

<s>The [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15] would be a good option that seems like good value at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-75-15-charge-controller-victron-sc around $130]. Note: this charge controller may not be sufficient if the DFNEXT video camera is also in use. You will also need a [https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/ve-direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle Bluetooth smart dongle] or [https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/ve-direct-to-usb-interface USB cable] to program the battery charging voltages on the charge controller (about [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle~21407 $90] or [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-to-usb-interface $50] respectively). If installing a DFNEXT with the video camera enabled you might want to consider the [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 100/15] at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-100-15-charge-controller-victron-s around $160] in case you need to add a second panel in the future.</s>

<s>The DFN has used the [https://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SS3.IOM_.Operators_Manual.01.EN_.pdf SunSaver SS-20L-12V] with three 80-100W panels for most of its installs, but this configuration is no longer recommended due to the high cost of 12V panels compared to 60 or 72 cell 24V panels.</s>

=== Solar Panel(s) ===
A single polycrystalline panel of at least 275W is recommended. We would recommend considering the [https://www.jinkosolar.com/ftp/EN-Eagle+-275PP(Plus)-60_rev2015.pdf Jinko Solar JKM275PP-60] which is very good value at [https://sgwholesale.solar/ $0.46/W]. We have used the Jinko Solar JKM270PP-60 to power all of our off-grid FireOpal SSA observatories.

=== Fuses and Fuse Holders ===
The power system should be protected by two [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s5910a-25a-clear-blade-fuse/ 25A] automotive blade fuses placed in line with the battery and load (observatory) using [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s6036-30a-in-line-blade-fuse-holder/ blade fuse holders] (unless protection is provided by the solar charge controller—as is the case with the Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT charging controllers like [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15]).

=== Wire for connections ===
Use ≈10 AWG cable for wiring inside the battery box. Wire can be purchased from electronics shops such as [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w4158-85-0.30-heavy-duty-automotive-figure-8-cable/ Altronics] or [https://www.jaycar.com.au/25a-2-core-tinned-dc-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3087 Jaycar], or from electronic components distributors such as Mouser ([https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-RD005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7%2fq7IzrvhBjE%3d Red], [https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-BK005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7AlK53dc87ts%3d Black]).

For exterior solar panel connections use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w7015-56-0.30-4mm-42a-solar-cable/ 4mm2 UV resistant solar cable]. You will also need [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/p8600b-ip67-mc4-solar-panel-30a-line-plug-socket-connector/ MC4 connectors] and the [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=crimptool%2Bmc4 correct crimp tool]. Pre-terminated cables are also [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=solar%2Bmc4%2Blead available].

=== Cable Glands or Panel Mount Connectors ===
You will need to use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4304a-3-6.5mm-eg7-pg7-black-ip68-cable-gland/ cable glands] or panel mount MC4 connectors ([https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368622/ Male], [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368621/ Female]) to wire the solar panels through the wall of the battery box to the charge controller.

=== DFN Observatory Power Connector ===
The [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982516/ Amphenol MS3102A 14S-2P] is used on the battery box and the DFN observatory for the observatory power cable. The [https://au.element14.com/amphenol-industrial/10-040450-014/gasket-14s-14-shell-size-circular/dp/5779182 correct gasket] as well as some fastening hardware will have to be purchased separately. The mating connector which is used on the observatory power cable is [https://au.element14.com/amphenol/ms3106f14s-2s/circular-connector-plug-size-14s/dp/1849969 MS3106F 14S-2S].

=== DFN Observatory DC Power Cable ===
Make your own power cable using these instructions [[File:DFNEXT_DC_Power_Cable_Assembly.pdf]].

== Power System Wiring ==
Wire up the charge controller as specified in the charge controller's user manual.

== Set Up Observatory ==

* Bolt the observatory onto the stand
* Attach GNSS and mobile data antenna connections
* Connect power from battery box to observatory
* Secure lose wires using cable ties to stop abrasion and vibration from the wind
* Configure and test fireball observatory

== Fence ==

Building a fence around the observatory is very reasonable, especially in rural areas with cattle, sheep or goats.

Tools: you'll need fencing pliers to handle the fencing wire and gloves, especially if using barbed wire. For safety reasons we also recommend to use a special tool, called "stake driver" or "fence post driver" (available in Bunnings or Stratco [https://www.stratco.com.au/au/tools/hammers-mallets/fence-post-driver/]) rather than just a big hammer - it easier to work with and more efficient.

Material: you'll need 9+1 long stakes for the fence (we use 9 of 6foot, 1 of 5 foot, all from Bunnings). Plus 3 shorter ~ 90cm ones for the camera stand base (for solar panels stand anchoring 2 more short ones). Each corner has a vertical 6ft, and a supporting 6ft at an angle. For the gate, the 5foot is the gate one that you open, and you make a fencing wire hook/ring to close the gate. You can also use a 6foot one, upside down, but its not as good!

Regarding fencing wire - you'll need about 10m for the camera stand itself, about half as much for solar stand, plus 3-4 strands to go round the fence - barbed wire will keep the cattle off better. Fencing wire is cheap, just get a big reel, same with the barbed wire. On sites with goats we use wire mesh on the bottom of the fence and barbed wire on the top. All is available in Bunnings.

Standalone Fireball Camera Installation

2021-05-10T23:05:53Z

Robert Howie:

Solar powered sites - 12V system with 2-3 12V panels in parallel

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DaysHill_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Weekeroo.jpg|
File:Mt Ive DSC 4688 1600.JPG|
File:Nilpena_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Moolawatana_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Sm_DSC_2024.JPG|
File:Ingomar_camera_1200.JPG|
File:BillaKalina_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Billa Kalina DFNSMALL DSC 4279 1600.JPG|
</gallery>

Solar powered sites - new design - one large 24V panel, MPPT charging controller

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DSD_2868_1200_Gabyon_camera.jpg|
File:DSD_2872_1200_Gabyon_camera_from_back.jpg|
File:Goodlands_solar_powered_site_1200.JPG
</gallery>

= Parts =
Have the below designs laser cut. Number per installation and material are specified in the filenames.

=== Sunshield ===

DXF exports for laser cutting:

*Small DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for cold/moderate climate areas [[Media:20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf|20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf]]
** Important: the GPS antenna mount point od the small sunshield needs to be bent / dropped a bit not to block the fielad of view of the all-sky fish eye lenses. See these images: [[Media:Chiricahua Astronomy Complex Fireball Camera.jpg|Arizona DFNEXT system]], [[Media:20190725 160927.jpg|Granum camera system in Alberta, Canada]]
*Large DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for hot climate areas [[Media:20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf|20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf]]
** Similar with the large sunshield - needs to be bent, see the images above. This new design was improved by adding slits along the bend line, which makes the bending a lot easier in the field.

=== Solar Panel Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART solar support 45d MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 2.dxf|PART_solar_support_45d_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_2.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART solar support sand shoe MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 4.dxf|PART_solar_support_sand_shoe_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_4.dxf]] (in soft soil)

*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*30x30x3 Aluminium angle bar

=== Observatory Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART stand rib MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_rib_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART stand base MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_base_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf |PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*Fencing wire to construct tensioning stays

(Note: wedges are included twice as they are used by both designs but only 30 in total are required per installation.)

=== Other Parts ===

* Star picket stakes to secure the stand in soft soil, or
* Sand bags or rocks to weigh down stand in rocky terrain
* Hardware to build the fence - if applicable (see [[Standalone_Fireball_Camera_Installation#Fence|below]])

= Observatory deployment =
Plan the site orientation: solar panels pointing North and camera system box door pointing the opposite direction - South. (This is valid for the Southern hemisphere, North hemisphere is the other way.) There are a few photos on top of this page for inspiration.

== Observatory Stand Assembly ==
At least two people are recommended for assembling the stand.

# Place stand base on four blocks or bricks ensuring there is clearance for the rib and back's tabs.
# Place stand back on top of base and insert tabs.
# Lean stand back outwards and insert stand rib. You may have to wiggle the pieces until they fall into place.
# Start inserting wedges staring from the corners. Do the top first and then start on the bottom corners. It may be helpful to tilt the stand over a bit or lay it down on its side.
# Once the wedges are are all securely inserted, wire up the four fencing wire cross stays and tension by twisting using a large screwdriver.
# Align stand so stand back is facing south (in the Southern Hemisphere, north in the Northern Hemisphere).
# Stake down the stand in soft soil or weigh down the stand using rocks or sandbags. As the centre of mass is not over the centre in the base, it is not safe to leave the stand without weight or stakes.

== Solar Panel Stand Assembly ==

# Assemble solar panel stand using aluminium angle bar, wedges, panels and self tapping fasteners (Tek Screws) into the panels.
# Add sand shoes in soft soil
# Stake or weigh down solar panel stand.

== Power System ==
Components:

* Enclosure

* Deep cycle battery
* Solar charge controller
* Solar panel(s)
* Fuses and fuse holders for load and battery if not provided by solar charge controller
* Wire for connections
* Cable glands or panel mount connectors
* DFN observatory power connector
* DFN observatory DC power cable

=== Enclosure ===
The B&R Forte FR060430 has been used for all previous solar powered DFN observatory installations (unless there is an existing power supply). It is available from electrical wholesalers (e.g. [http://advanced.net.au/ Advanced Electrical Equipment], [http://electricaldistributors.com.au/ Electrical Distributors], [https://www.mmem.com.au/ MM Electrical Merchandising]) or at a higher price from [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wall-boxes/8852711 RS Components].

''Note: we always to put the battery enclosure on a couple of bricks. In case of a torrential rain, water will not get into the enclosure. Wooden blocks are not recommended, as they might get eaten by termites and collapse.''

=== Deep Cycle Battery ===
'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

The recommended battery for the DFN fireball observatories is a 140-180 AH deep cycle lead acid battery. This is the same sort of battery you would use to run a fridge in an RV or boat. AGM (absorbant glass mat) or gel constructions should be used. The DFN uses 165 or 175 AH AGM deep cycle batteries. Ensure that the battery will fit inside the Forte FR060430 with the solar charge controller. (Usable internal dimensions are a bit less than 600x400x300 mm.)

Good suppliers include:

* [http://www.independantbattery.com.au/ Independent Battery Distributors],
* [https://www.batteryworld.com.au/ Battery World], and
* [https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/ Aussie Batteries & Solar].

It is worth ordering in bulk and obtaining multiple quotes to secure a good price. Lead acid batteries will degrade if not kept charged, so it is worth charging any batteries you have in storage about every six months.

When used in a solar power application it is best to keep the [[wikipedia:Depth_of_discharge|depth of discharge]] of lead acid batteries to 30% or less to prolong the cycle life of the battery.

If the recommendations on this page are followed and the charging voltages on the solar charge controller are set correctly for your battery, your observatory's battery should last at least four years. Long life tubular gel cell batteries may offer lifetimes of 15-20 years, but have not been tested.

=== Battery Energy SunGEL Long Life Sealed Lead Acid Gel Battery Information===
[File:SunGEL Installation and Maintenance Manual BE-MA-SG-001-02-13-07.pdf]
[File:Charging BE lead acid batteries.pdf]

=== Solar Charge Controller ===
A [[wikipedia:Maximum_power_point_tracking|maximum power point tracking]] charge controller will allow you to use much better value 200-360W 60 or 72 cell 24V solar panels designed for rooftop use and available as low as $0.50 per Watt instead of 12V 65-150W solar panels designed for camping which are much more expensive (around $2 per Watt).

'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

<s>The [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15] would be a good option that seems like good value at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-75-15-charge-controller-victron-sc around $130]. Note: this charge controller may not be sufficient if the DFNEXT video camera is also in use. You will also need a [https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/ve-direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle Bluetooth smart dongle] or [https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/ve-direct-to-usb-interface USB cable] to program the battery charging voltages on the charge controller (about [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle~21407 $90] or [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-to-usb-interface $50] respectively). If installing a DFNEXT with the video camera enabled you might want to consider the [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 100/15] at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-100-15-charge-controller-victron-s around $160] in case you need to add a second panel in the future.</s>

<s>The DFN has used the [https://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SS3.IOM_.Operators_Manual.01.EN_.pdf SunSaver SS-20L-12V] with three 80-100W panels for most of its installs, but this configuration is no longer recommended due to the high cost of 12V panels compared to 60 or 72 cell 24V panels.</s>

=== Solar Panel(s) ===
A single polycrystalline panel of at least 275W is recommended. We would recommend considering the [https://www.jinkosolar.com/ftp/EN-Eagle+-275PP(Plus)-60_rev2015.pdf Jinko Solar JKM275PP-60] which is very good value at [https://sgwholesale.solar/ $0.46/W]. We have used the Jinko Solar JKM270PP-60 to power all of our off-grid FireOpal SSA observatories.

=== Fuses and Fuse Holders ===
The power system should be protected by two [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s5910a-25a-clear-blade-fuse/ 25A] automotive blade fuses placed in line with the battery and load (observatory) using [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s6036-30a-in-line-blade-fuse-holder/ blade fuse holders] (unless protection is provided by the solar charge controller—as is the case with the Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT charging controllers like [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15]).

=== Wire for connections ===
Use ≈10 AWG cable for wiring inside the battery box. Wire can be purchased from electronics shops such as [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w4158-85-0.30-heavy-duty-automotive-figure-8-cable/ Altronics] or [https://www.jaycar.com.au/25a-2-core-tinned-dc-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3087 Jaycar], or from electronic components distributors such as Mouser ([https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-RD005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7%2fq7IzrvhBjE%3d Red], [https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-BK005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7AlK53dc87ts%3d Black]).

For exterior solar panel connections use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w7015-56-0.30-4mm-42a-solar-cable/ 4mm2 UV resistant solar cable]. You will also need [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/p8600b-ip67-mc4-solar-panel-30a-line-plug-socket-connector/ MC4 connectors] and the [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=crimptool%2Bmc4 correct crimp tool]. Pre-terminated cables are also [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=solar%2Bmc4%2Blead available].

=== Cable Glands or Panel Mount Connectors ===
You will need to use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4304a-3-6.5mm-eg7-pg7-black-ip68-cable-gland/ cable glands] or panel mount MC4 connectors ([https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368622/ Male], [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368621/ Female]) to wire the solar panels through the wall of the battery box to the charge controller.

=== DFN Observatory Power Connector ===
The [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982516/ Amphenol MS3102A 14S-2P] is used on the battery box and the DFN observatory for the observatory power cable. The [https://au.element14.com/amphenol-industrial/10-040450-014/gasket-14s-14-shell-size-circular/dp/5779182 correct gasket] as well as some fastening hardware will have to be purchased separately. The mating connector which is used on the observatory power cable is [https://au.element14.com/amphenol/ms3106f14s-2s/circular-connector-plug-size-14s/dp/1849969 MS3106F 14S-2S].

=== DFN Observatory DC Power Cable ===
Make your own power cable using these instructions [[File:DFNEXT_DC_Power_Cable_Assembly.pdf]].

== Power System Wiring ==
Wire up the charge controller as specified in the charge controller's user manual.

== Set Up Observatory ==

* Bolt the observatory onto the stand
* Attach GNSS and mobile data antenna connections
* Connect power from battery box to observatory
* Secure lose wires using cable ties to stop abrasion and vibration from the wind
* Configure and test fireball observatory

== Fence ==

Building a fence around the observatory is very reasonable, especially in rural areas with cattle, sheep or goats.

Tools: you'll need fencing pliers to handle the fencing wire and gloves, especially if using barbed wire. For safety reasons we also recommend to use a special tool, called "stake driver" or "fence post driver" (available in Bunnings or Stratco [https://www.stratco.com.au/au/tools/hammers-mallets/fence-post-driver/]) rather than just a big hammer - it easier to work with and more efficient.

Material: you'll need 9+1 long stakes for the fence (we use 9 of 6foot, 1 of 5 foot, all from Bunnings). Plus 3 shorter ~ 90cm ones for the camera stand base (for solar panels stand anchoring 2 more short ones). Each corner has a vertical 6ft, and a supporting 6ft at an angle. For the gate, the 5foot is the gate one that you open, and you make a fencing wire hook/ring to close the gate. You can also use a 6foot one, upside down, but its not as good!

Regarding fencing wire - you'll need about 10m for the camera stand itself, about half as much for solar stand, plus 3-4 strands to go round the fence - barbed wire will keep the cattle off better. Fencing wire is cheap, just get a big reel, same with the barbed wire. On sites with goats we use wire mesh on the bottom of the fence and barbed wire on the top. All is available in Bunnings.

File:Charging BE lead acid batteries.pdf

2021-05-10T23:04:34Z

Robert Howie:

File:SunGEL Installation and Maintenance Manual BE-MA-SG-001-02-13-07.pdf

2021-05-10T23:03:45Z

Robert Howie:

Standalone Fireball Camera Installation

2021-05-10T23:02:20Z

Robert Howie:

Solar powered sites - 12V system with 2-3 12V panels in parallel

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DaysHill_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Weekeroo.jpg|
File:Mt Ive DSC 4688 1600.JPG|
File:Nilpena_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Moolawatana_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Sm_DSC_2024.JPG|
File:Ingomar_camera_1200.JPG|
File:BillaKalina_camera_1200.JPG|
File:Billa Kalina DFNSMALL DSC 4279 1600.JPG|
</gallery>

Solar powered sites - new design - one large 24V panel, MPPT charging controller

<gallery mode="packed" heights="350">
File:DSD_2868_1200_Gabyon_camera.jpg|
File:DSD_2872_1200_Gabyon_camera_from_back.jpg|
File:Goodlands_solar_powered_site_1200.JPG
</gallery>

= Parts =
Have the below designs laser cut. Number per installation and material are specified in the filenames.

=== Sunshield ===

DXF exports for laser cutting:

*Small DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for cold/moderate climate areas [[Media:20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf|20170330_Sunshield_2mm_Al.dxf]]
** Important: the GPS antenna mount point od the small sunshield needs to be bent / dropped a bit not to block the fielad of view of the all-sky fish eye lenses. See these images: [[Media:Chiricahua Astronomy Complex Fireball Camera.jpg|Arizona DFNEXT system]], [[Media:20190725 160927.jpg|Granum camera system in Alberta, Canada]]
*Large DFNEXT/DFNSMALL 2mm aluminium sunshield for hot climate areas [[Media:20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf|20191218_large_dfnext_sunshield_2mm_aluminum.dxf]]
** Similar with the large sunshield - needs to be bent, see the images above. This new design was improved by adding slits along the bend line, which makes the bending a lot easier in the field.

=== Solar Panel Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART solar support 45d MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 2.dxf|PART_solar_support_45d_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_2.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART solar support sand shoe MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 4.dxf|PART_solar_support_sand_shoe_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_4.dxf]] (in soft soil)

*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*30x30x3 Aluminium angle bar

=== Observatory Stand ===

DXF exports for water jet cutting:

*[[Media:PART stand rib MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_rib_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART stand base MAT 5mm mild steel QTY 1.dxf|PART_stand_base_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf |PART_stand_back_MAT_5mm_mild_steel_QTY_1.dxf]]
*[[Media:PART wedge MAT 10mm mild steel QTY 30.dxf|PART_wedge_MAT_10mm_mild_steel_QTY_30.dxf]]
*Fencing wire to construct tensioning stays

(Note: wedges are included twice as they are used by both designs but only 30 in total are required per installation.)

=== Other Parts ===

* Star picket stakes to secure the stand in soft soil, or
* Sand bags or rocks to weigh down stand in rocky terrain
* Hardware to build the fence - if applicable (see [[Standalone_Fireball_Camera_Installation#Fence|below]])

= Observatory deployment =
Plan the site orientation: solar panels pointing North and camera system box door pointing the opposite direction - South. (This is valid for the Southern hemisphere, North hemisphere is the other way.) There are a few photos on top of this page for inspiration.

== Observatory Stand Assembly ==
At least two people are recommended for assembling the stand.

# Place stand base on four blocks or bricks ensuring there is clearance for the rib and back's tabs.
# Place stand back on top of base and insert tabs.
# Lean stand back outwards and insert stand rib. You may have to wiggle the pieces until they fall into place.
# Start inserting wedges staring from the corners. Do the top first and then start on the bottom corners. It may be helpful to tilt the stand over a bit or lay it down on its side.
# Once the wedges are are all securely inserted, wire up the four fencing wire cross stays and tension by twisting using a large screwdriver.
# Align stand so stand back is facing south (in the Southern Hemisphere, north in the Northern Hemisphere).
# Stake down the stand in soft soil or weigh down the stand using rocks or sandbags. As the centre of mass is not over the centre in the base, it is not safe to leave the stand without weight or stakes.

== Solar Panel Stand Assembly ==

# Assemble solar panel stand using aluminium angle bar, wedges, panels and self tapping fasteners (Tek Screws) into the panels.
# Add sand shoes in soft soil
# Stake or weigh down solar panel stand.

== Power System ==
Components:

* Enclosure

* Deep cycle battery
* Solar charge controller
* Solar panel(s)
* Fuses and fuse holders for load and battery if not provided by solar charge controller
* Wire for connections
* Cable glands or panel mount connectors
* DFN observatory power connector
* DFN observatory DC power cable

=== Enclosure ===
The B&R Forte FR060430 has been used for all previous solar powered DFN observatory installations (unless there is an existing power supply). It is available from electrical wholesalers (e.g. [http://advanced.net.au/ Advanced Electrical Equipment], [http://electricaldistributors.com.au/ Electrical Distributors], [https://www.mmem.com.au/ MM Electrical Merchandising]) or at a higher price from [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/wall-boxes/8852711 RS Components].

''Note: we always to put the battery enclosure on a couple of bricks. In case of a torrential rain, water will not get into the enclosure. Wooden blocks are not recommended, as they might get eaten by termites and collapse.''

=== Deep Cycle Battery ===
'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

The recommended battery for the DFN fireball observatories is a 140-180 AH deep cycle lead acid battery. This is the same sort of battery you would use to run a fridge in an RV or boat. AGM (absorbant glass mat) or gel constructions should be used. The DFN uses 165 or 175 AH AGM deep cycle batteries. Ensure that the battery will fit inside the Forte FR060430 with the solar charge controller. (Usable internal dimensions are a bit less than 600x400x300 mm.)

Good suppliers include:

* [http://www.independantbattery.com.au/ Independent Battery Distributors],
* [https://www.batteryworld.com.au/ Battery World], and
* [https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/ Aussie Batteries & Solar].

It is worth ordering in bulk and obtaining multiple quotes to secure a good price. Lead acid batteries will degrade if not kept charged, so it is worth charging any batteries you have in storage about every six months.

When used in a solar power application it is best to keep the [[wikipedia:Depth_of_discharge|depth of discharge]] of lead acid batteries to 30% or less to prolong the cycle life of the battery.

If the recommendations on this page are followed and the charging voltages on the solar charge controller are set correctly for your battery, your observatory's battery should last at least four years. Long life tubular gel cell batteries may offer lifetimes of 15-20 years, but have not been tested.

=== Battery Energy SunGEL Long Life Sealed Lead Acid Gel Battery Information===

=== Solar Charge Controller ===
A [[wikipedia:Maximum_power_point_tracking|maximum power point tracking]] charge controller will allow you to use much better value 200-360W 60 or 72 cell 24V solar panels designed for rooftop use and available as low as $0.50 per Watt instead of 12V 65-150W solar panels designed for camping which are much more expensive (around $2 per Watt).

'''Note: The solar power system is currently being redesigned to cope with the additional load of the digital video camera subsystem.'''

<s>The [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15] would be a good option that seems like good value at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-75-15-charge-controller-victron-sc around $130]. Note: this charge controller may not be sufficient if the DFNEXT video camera is also in use. You will also need a [https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/ve-direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle Bluetooth smart dongle] or [https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/ve-direct-to-usb-interface USB cable] to program the battery charging voltages on the charge controller (about [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-bluetooth-smart-dongle~21407 $90] or [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/victron-ve.direct-to-usb-interface $50] respectively). If installing a DFNEXT with the video camera enabled you might want to consider the [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 100/15] at [https://www.outbackmarine.com.au/blue-solar-mppt-100-15-charge-controller-victron-s around $160] in case you need to add a second panel in the future.</s>

<s>The DFN has used the [https://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SS3.IOM_.Operators_Manual.01.EN_.pdf SunSaver SS-20L-12V] with three 80-100W panels for most of its installs, but this configuration is no longer recommended due to the high cost of 12V panels compared to 60 or 72 cell 24V panels.</s>

=== Solar Panel(s) ===
A single polycrystalline panel of at least 275W is recommended. We would recommend considering the [https://www.jinkosolar.com/ftp/EN-Eagle+-275PP(Plus)-60_rev2015.pdf Jinko Solar JKM275PP-60] which is very good value at [https://sgwholesale.solar/ $0.46/W]. We have used the Jinko Solar JKM270PP-60 to power all of our off-grid FireOpal SSA observatories.

=== Fuses and Fuse Holders ===
The power system should be protected by two [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s5910a-25a-clear-blade-fuse/ 25A] automotive blade fuses placed in line with the battery and load (observatory) using [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s6036-30a-in-line-blade-fuse-holder/ blade fuse holders] (unless protection is provided by the solar charge controller—as is the case with the Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT charging controllers like [https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510 Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 75/15]).

=== Wire for connections ===
Use ≈10 AWG cable for wiring inside the battery box. Wire can be purchased from electronics shops such as [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w4158-85-0.30-heavy-duty-automotive-figure-8-cable/ Altronics] or [https://www.jaycar.com.au/25a-2-core-tinned-dc-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3087 Jaycar], or from electronic components distributors such as Mouser ([https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-RD005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7%2fq7IzrvhBjE%3d Red], [https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6831-BK005?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tPEcnFWMEIz7AlK53dc87ts%3d Black]).

For exterior solar panel connections use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w7015-56-0.30-4mm-42a-solar-cable/ 4mm2 UV resistant solar cable]. You will also need [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/p8600b-ip67-mc4-solar-panel-30a-line-plug-socket-connector/ MC4 connectors] and the [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=crimptool%2Bmc4 correct crimp tool]. Pre-terminated cables are also [https://www.altronics.com.au/search/all/?sr=solar%2Bmc4%2Blead available].

=== Cable Glands or Panel Mount Connectors ===
You will need to use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4304a-3-6.5mm-eg7-pg7-black-ip68-cable-gland/ cable glands] or panel mount MC4 connectors ([https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368622/ Male], [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-connectors/1368621/ Female]) to wire the solar panels through the wall of the battery box to the charge controller.

=== DFN Observatory Power Connector ===
The [https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982516/ Amphenol MS3102A 14S-2P] is used on the battery box and the DFN observatory for the observatory power cable. The [https://au.element14.com/amphenol-industrial/10-040450-014/gasket-14s-14-shell-size-circular/dp/5779182 correct gasket] as well as some fastening hardware will have to be purchased separately. The mating connector which is used on the observatory power cable is [https://au.element14.com/amphenol/ms3106f14s-2s/circular-connector-plug-size-14s/dp/1849969 MS3106F 14S-2S].

=== DFN Observatory DC Power Cable ===
Make your own power cable using these instructions [[File:DFNEXT_DC_Power_Cable_Assembly.pdf]].

== Power System Wiring ==
Wire up the charge controller as specified in the charge controller's user manual.

== Set Up Observatory ==

* Bolt the observatory onto the stand
* Attach GNSS and mobile data antenna connections
* Connect power from battery box to observatory
* Secure lose wires using cable ties to stop abrasion and vibration from the wind
* Configure and test fireball observatory

== Fence ==

Building a fence around the observatory is very reasonable, especially in rural areas with cattle, sheep or goats.

Tools: you'll need fencing pliers to handle the fencing wire and gloves, especially if using barbed wire. For safety reasons we also recommend to use a special tool, called "stake driver" or "fence post driver" (available in Bunnings or Stratco [https://www.stratco.com.au/au/tools/hammers-mallets/fence-post-driver/]) rather than just a big hammer - it easier to work with and more efficient.

Material: you'll need 9+1 long stakes for the fence (we use 9 of 6foot, 1 of 5 foot, all from Bunnings). Plus 3 shorter ~ 90cm ones for the camera stand base (for solar panels stand anchoring 2 more short ones). Each corner has a vertical 6ft, and a supporting 6ft at an angle. For the gate, the 5foot is the gate one that you open, and you make a fencing wire hook/ring to close the gate. You can also use a 6foot one, upside down, but its not as good!

Regarding fencing wire - you'll need about 10m for the camera stand itself, about half as much for solar stand, plus 3-4 strands to go round the fence - barbed wire will keep the cattle off better. Fencing wire is cheap, just get a big reel, same with the barbed wire. On sites with goats we use wire mesh on the bottom of the fence and barbed wire on the top. All is available in Bunnings.

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T17:47:58Z

Robert Howie:

The power supply recommended for AC powered installations where the observatory is located close to the AC power supply is the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/gst120a Meanwell GST120A12].

For observatories with heaters and long DC power cable runs the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-300 Meanwell HRP-300-12] is recommended as it's remote sense functionality allows it to compensate for any voltage drop in the long cable runs. (If no heaters are present, the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-150 Meanwell HRP-150-12] is the preferred option.)

Direct links to order Meanwell HRP-300-12 from USA:

[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HRP-300-12?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdqMP%2FaZ%252BGCqLV2Ez6D3hU HRP-300-12, Mouser Electronics]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HRP-300-12.shtml HRP-300-12, TRC Electronics]

Accessories for Meanwell HRP-300-12:

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/TRC/TRC-E-HRP300450600.shtml TRC-E-HRP300450600 enclosure for HRP-300-12]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Tumbler/32V86S.shtml US/Canada power cord for HRP-300-12]

[[File:Power supply wiring with remote voltage sense.svg|none|thumb|640x640px|Power supply wiring with remote sense for long cable runs.]]

=== Outdoor Cable ===
The recommended off the shelf for use on roofs or outdoor structures is the sunlight and abrasion resistant AlphaWire EcoFlex PUR 80045 SL005 (unshielded) or 80145 SL005 (braid shield). Digi-Key usually has one or the other in stock: [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80045-SL005/80045SL005-ND/5271247 80045 SL005], [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80145-SL005/80145SL005-ND/5271269 80145 SL005].

That cabling doesn't have a twisted pair, so we recommend wiring up the conductors to the green numbering in the two images below.

[[File:Remote sense cable wiring power supply side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the power supply side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
You should use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2107-blue-3mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/ Blue 3mm Fork Crimps] to terminate the conductors for L,N,E,-V and +V.
This power supply should be installed in a metal enclosure which should be connected via grounding studs to the Earth terminal. The enclosure's door or access panel also needs to be connected.
See the Meanwell HRP datasheet for sense connector details.]]
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring observatory side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the observatory power plug side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
Conductors 1 and 6 will need to be soldered to the side of C and B if thick conductors are used.
The transition from insulated wire to contact needs to be covered by heat shrink to prevent short circuits if the cable subject to twisting torques.]]

=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="200">
File:20190724_212110.jpg|
File:20190724_212620.jpg|
File:20190724_212709.jpg|
</gallery>

=== Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package ===
If you need to build your own long cable with (using the cable listed above) you can request a ''Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package'' from [[Getting Help|us]]. It should contain:
[[File:Long DC cable connector care package.png|none|thumb|920x920px]]
{| class="wikitable"
!Item #
!Part
!Quantity
!Manufacturer
!Manufacturer Part Number
!Example Supplier Link 1
!Example Supplier Link 2
|-
|1
|MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug, 14S-2S insert
|1
|various

(Amphenol Industrial)
|various

(MS4106F-14S-2S-624)
|https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-industrial-operations/MS3106F-14S-2S/MS3106F14S-2S-ND/378649
|https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982465/
|-
|2
|PG13.5 cable gland adaptor for size 14 MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug
|1
|Amphenol Industrial
|97B-14S-PG13.5-624
|DFN Camera Help
|Amphenol Industrial (minimum order quantity will apply)
|-
|3
|PG13.5 cable gland
|1
|various
|various
|https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/cable-and-cord-grips/492?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv121=385758&pv121=385768&sf=1&FV=-8%7C492&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4318A-6-12mm-eg13.5-pg13.5-black-ip68-cable-gland/
|-
|4
|≈10mm length of 3 mm yellow heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|5
|≈10mm length of 3 mm black heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|6
|≈10mm length of 5 mm heatshrink tubing (may be required if 3 mm tubing doesn't fit over contacts "C" and "B")
|0-2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0913a-black-5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|7
|Power supply connector
|1
|Hirose
|DF11-2DS-2C
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/DF11-8DS-2C/H2022-ND/141255
|
|-
|8
|≈10mm length of 3 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|9
|≈10mm length of 1.5 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0910a-black-1.5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|10
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, red, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-R6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-R6/H3BBT-10106-R6-ND/310537
|
|-
|11
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, black, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-B6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-B6/H3BBT-10106-B6-ND/310505
|
|-
|12
|Blue 4 mm fork crimp terminal
|7
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2082a-blue-4mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/
|
|}

=== Long DC Cable Assembly ===
[[File:20190918 114454.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut around cable jacket about 50 mm back from cable end, careful only to cut jacket and do not nick wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114512.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Bend cable and carefully slice away jacket without nicking wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114635.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Pull off jacket to reveal wires.]]
[[File:20190918 114658.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut fibrous centre reinforcement.]]
[[File:20190918 115321.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|End should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 115757.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This sort of wire stripper and cutter is recommended. Ensure it is sharp otherwise you'll have a hard time inserting the mangled conductor into the crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115538.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Trim wires back using wire cutters and place cable gland (without nut) onto cable.]]
[[File:20190918 115612.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place cable gland adaptor on cable and screw together with cable gland.]]
[[File:20190918 115724.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip ends for crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the correct crimp tool for the contacts, or solder the connections. Pliers won't work.]]
[[File:20190918 115819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Set your crimp tool to the correct setting on the coloured wheel on the back (red on ours). Insert your crimp contacts into the tool.]]
[[File:20190918 115836.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Ensure the contact is fully inserted and crimp fully without stopping.]]
[[File:20190918 115848.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This is what a good crimp looks like. Ensure the wire is visible in the hole. If not, then you didn't strip enough insulation of or insert the wire deep enough.]]
[[File:20190918 120819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Crimp the other power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 122415.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing, yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
[[File:20190918 122350.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshink over the wires, taking care to use the correct colours (yellow for +12V and black for GND) and to bundle the voltage sense wires inside the heatshrink with their corresponding power contacts (which they will be soldered to later).]]
[[File:20190918 120735.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the contact insertion tool to push the contacts into the plug.]]
[[File:20190918 122718.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Insert the contacts, grip around the skinny part initially before moving back to the crimp part to avoid bending the contacts. If you do bend the contacts, cut the wires and start again. Do not straighten bent contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 121758.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use our soldering station to solder the voltage sense wires to the power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123025.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place a blob of solder on the side of the crimp part of the two power contacts where the voltage sense wires will be attached.]]
[[File:20190918 123050.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the voltage sense wires.]]
[[File:20190918 122938.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 123119.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Press the wire to the contact with tweezers and reflow the solder to make the connection.]]
[[File:20190918 123215.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this. The solder joints should look smoother and shinier than this though.]]
[[File:20190918 123318.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Push the heatshrink tubing up to cover the contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123427.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use a hot air station to shrink the heatshink tubing. You can use a hot air gun or a lighter instead.]]
[[File:20190918 123442.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Shrink the tubing with hot air. Take care not to melt the insulation.]]

Your connector should now look like this:
<gallery mode="packed" heights="300">
File:20190918_123513.jpg|
File:20190918_123550.jpg|
File:20190918_123612.jpg|
</gallery>
[[File:20190918 123625.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Slide up the adaptor and cable gland.]]
[[File:20190918 123725.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tighten the cable gland adaptor onto the connector. It can be helpful to mate the plug with a fireball observatory when doing this.]]
[[File:20190918 123729.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|After tightening the gland adaptor onto the plug, and the gland onto the adaptor, tighten the cable gland to clamp onto the cable. Doing this in the correct order is important to ensure that the wires aren't forcefully twisted inside the plug, which could cause a short circuit.]]
[[File:20190918 123756.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The gland should clamp the cable securely like this.]]
[[File:20190918 123806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The plug should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 124546.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut the long DC cable to the required length and strip the jacket from the other end.]]
[[File:20190918 124546.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|You will need to strip the jacket from a longer length.]]
[[File:20190918 124812.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut out the centre material.]]

[[File:20190918 140828.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut a ≈30 mm length of ≈10 mm heat shrink (glue lined if available) to provide strain relief for the wires exiting the jacket.]]
[[File:20190918 140939.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the thick heatshink over the end of the jacket.]]

[[File:20190918 125003.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut some ≈10 mm lengths of 1.5-3 mm heatshrink for the voltage sense wires.]]
[[File:20190918 124842.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut some ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing which will be used to label the fork crimps. Use yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
[[File:20190918 125102.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshrink on the wires ensuring that the colours correctly match the pins at the other end. You can use the continuity checker (beep) functionality of a multimeter to check which wire is connected to which pin.]]
[[File:20190918 135624.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip the power wires for the 4 mm fork terminals.]]
[[File:20190918 135630.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use a crimp tool for insulated terminals like this to crimp the fork terminals onto the ends of the wires. Ensure that the labelling heat shrink doesn't fall off. Use a ratcheting crimp tool like this with a good quality die. Do not use a non-ratcheting crimp tool made from two pieces of stamped steel.]]
[[File:20190918 135819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut back the voltage sense wires about 50 mm and strip about 5 mm.]]
[[File:20190918 140019.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut the pre-crimped DF-11 jumper cables in half and trim to about 20 mm longer than the off-cuts from the voltage sense wires (a length of about 70 mm). Strip about 5 mm from the ends of the jumper wires.]]
[[File:20190918 140158.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the stripped ends of the voltage sense wires and jumper wires.]]
[[File:20190918 140254.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Join the wires and reflow the solder with the soldering iron.]]
[[File:20190918 140334.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The joints should look something like this.]]
[[File:20190918 140355.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Slide the thin heatshrink tubing down to the joint use hot air to shrink.]]
[[File:20190918 140948.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Shrink the strain relief heatshrink tubing as well, lining up the centre of the heatshrink tubing up with the end of the jacket.]]

add df 11 stuff

[[File:20190918 141031.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The long DC cable is now complete and the power supply end should look like this.]]

File:20190918 140355.jpg

2019-10-24T17:39:41Z

Robert Howie:

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T17:38:46Z

Robert Howie:

The power supply recommended for AC powered installations where the observatory is located close to the AC power supply is the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/gst120a Meanwell GST120A12].

For observatories with heaters and long DC power cable runs the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-300 Meanwell HRP-300-12] is recommended as it's remote sense functionality allows it to compensate for any voltage drop in the long cable runs. (If no heaters are present, the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-150 Meanwell HRP-150-12] is the preferred option.)

Direct links to order Meanwell HRP-300-12 from USA:

[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HRP-300-12?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdqMP%2FaZ%252BGCqLV2Ez6D3hU HRP-300-12, Mouser Electronics]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HRP-300-12.shtml HRP-300-12, TRC Electronics]

Accessories for Meanwell HRP-300-12:

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/TRC/TRC-E-HRP300450600.shtml TRC-E-HRP300450600 enclosure for HRP-300-12]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Tumbler/32V86S.shtml US/Canada power cord for HRP-300-12]

[[File:Power supply wiring with remote voltage sense.svg|none|thumb|640x640px|Power supply wiring with remote sense for long cable runs.]]

=== Outdoor Cable ===
The recommended off the shelf for use on roofs or outdoor structures is the sunlight and abrasion resistant AlphaWire EcoFlex PUR 80045 SL005 (unshielded) or 80145 SL005 (braid shield). Digi-Key usually has one or the other in stock: [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80045-SL005/80045SL005-ND/5271247 80045 SL005], [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80145-SL005/80145SL005-ND/5271269 80145 SL005].

That cabling doesn't have a twisted pair, so we recommend wiring up the conductors to the green numbering in the two images below.

[[File:Remote sense cable wiring power supply side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the power supply side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
You should use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2107-blue-3mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/ Blue 3mm Fork Crimps] to terminate the conductors for L,N,E,-V and +V.
This power supply should be installed in a metal enclosure which should be connected via grounding studs to the Earth terminal. The enclosure's door or access panel also needs to be connected.
See the Meanwell HRP datasheet for sense connector details.]]
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring observatory side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the observatory power plug side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
Conductors 1 and 6 will need to be soldered to the side of C and B if thick conductors are used.
The transition from insulated wire to contact needs to be covered by heat shrink to prevent short circuits if the cable subject to twisting torques.]]

=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="200">
File:20190724_212110.jpg|
File:20190724_212620.jpg|
File:20190724_212709.jpg|
</gallery>

=== Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package ===
If you need to build your own long cable with (using the cable listed above) you can request a ''Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package'' from [[Getting Help|us]]. It should contain:
[[File:Long DC cable connector care package.png|none|thumb|920x920px]]
{| class="wikitable"
!Item #
!Part
!Quantity
!Manufacturer
!Manufacturer Part Number
!Example Supplier Link 1
!Example Supplier Link 2
|-
|1
|MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug, 14S-2S insert
|1
|various

(Amphenol Industrial)
|various

(MS4106F-14S-2S-624)
|https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-industrial-operations/MS3106F-14S-2S/MS3106F14S-2S-ND/378649
|https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982465/
|-
|2
|PG13.5 cable gland adaptor for size 14 MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug
|1
|Amphenol Industrial
|97B-14S-PG13.5-624
|DFN Camera Help
|Amphenol Industrial (minimum order quantity will apply)
|-
|3
|PG13.5 cable gland
|1
|various
|various
|https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/cable-and-cord-grips/492?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv121=385758&pv121=385768&sf=1&FV=-8%7C492&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4318A-6-12mm-eg13.5-pg13.5-black-ip68-cable-gland/
|-
|4
|≈10mm length of 3 mm yellow heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|5
|≈10mm length of 3 mm black heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|6
|≈10mm length of 5 mm heatshrink tubing (may be required if 3 mm tubing doesn't fit over contacts "C" and "B")
|0-2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0913a-black-5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|7
|Power supply connector
|1
|Hirose
|DF11-2DS-2C
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/DF11-8DS-2C/H2022-ND/141255
|
|-
|8
|≈10mm length of 3 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|9
|≈10mm length of 1.5 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0910a-black-1.5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|10
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, red, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-R6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-R6/H3BBT-10106-R6-ND/310537
|
|-
|11
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, black, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-B6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-B6/H3BBT-10106-B6-ND/310505
|
|-
|12
|Blue 4 mm fork crimp terminal
|7
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2082a-blue-4mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/
|
|}

=== Long DC Cable Assembly ===
[[File:20190918 114454.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut around cable jacket about 50 mm back from cable end, careful only to cut jacket and do not nick wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114512.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Bend cable and carefully slice away jacket without nicking wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114635.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Pull off jacket to reveal wires.]]
[[File:20190918 114658.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut fibrous centre reinforcement.]]
[[File:20190918 115321.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|End should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 115757.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This sort of wire stripper and cutter is recommended. Ensure it is sharp otherwise you'll have a hard time inserting the mangled conductor into the crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115538.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Trim wires back using wire cutters and place cable gland (without nut) onto cable.]]
[[File:20190918 115612.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place cable gland adaptor on cable and screw together with cable gland.]]
[[File:20190918 115724.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip ends for crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the correct crimp tool for the contacts, or solder the connections. Pliers won't work.]]
[[File:20190918 115819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Set your crimp tool to the correct setting on the coloured wheel on the back (red on ours). Insert your crimp contacts into the tool.]]
[[File:20190918 115836.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Ensure the contact is fully inserted and crimp fully without stopping.]]
[[File:20190918 115848.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This is what a good crimp looks like. Ensure the wire is visible in the hole. If not, then you didn't strip enough insulation of or insert the wire deep enough.]]
[[File:20190918 120819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Crimp the other power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 122415.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing, yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
[[File:20190918 122350.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshink over the wires, taking care to use the correct colours (yellow for +12V and black for GND) and to bundle the voltage sense wires inside the heatshrink with their corresponding power contacts (which they will be soldered to later).]]
[[File:20190918 120735.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the contact insertion tool to push the contacts into the plug.]]
[[File:20190918 122718.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Insert the contacts, grip around the skinny part initially before moving back to the crimp part to avoid bending the contacts. If you do bend the contacts, cut the wires and start again. Do not straighten bent contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 121758.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use our soldering station to solder the voltage sense wires to the power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123025.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place a blob of solder on the side of the crimp part of the two power contacts where the voltage sense wires will be attached.]]
[[File:20190918 123050.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the voltage sense wires.]]
[[File:20190918 122938.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 123119.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Press the wire to the contact with tweezers and reflow the solder to make the connection.]]
[[File:20190918 123215.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this. The solder joints should look smoother and shinier than this though.]]
[[File:20190918 123318.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Push the heatshrink tubing up to cover the contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123427.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use a hot air station to shrink the heatshink tubing. You can use a hot air gun or a lighter instead.]]
[[File:20190918 123442.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Shrink the tubing with hot air. Take care not to melt the insulation.]]

Your connector should now look like this:
<gallery mode="packed" heights="300">
File:20190918_123513.jpg|
File:20190918_123550.jpg|
File:20190918_123612.jpg|
</gallery>
[[File:20190918 123625.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Slide up the adaptor and cable gland.]]
[[File:20190918 123725.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tighten the cable gland adaptor onto the connector. It can be helpful to mate the plug with a fireball observatory when doing this.]]
[[File:20190918 123729.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|After tightening the gland adaptor onto the plug, and the gland onto the adaptor, tighten the cable gland to clamp onto the cable. Doing this in the correct order is important to ensure that the wires aren't forcefully twisted inside the plug, which could cause a short circuit.]]
[[File:20190918 123756.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The gland should clamp the cable securely like this.]]
[[File:20190918 123806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The plug should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 124546.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut the long DC cable to the required length and strip the jacket from the other end.]]
[[File:20190918 124546.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|You will need to strip the jacket from a longer length.]]
[[File:20190918 124812.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut out the centre material.]]

[[File:20190918 125003.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut some ≈10 mm lenghts of 1.5-3 mm heatshink for the voltage sense wires.]]
[[File:20190918 124842.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut some ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing which will be used to label the fork crimps. Use yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
[[File:20190918 125102.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshink on the wires ensuring that the colours correctly match the pins at the other end. You can use the continuity checker (beep) functionality of a multimeter to check which wire is connected to which pin.]]
[[File:20190918 135624.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip the power wires for the 4 mm fork terminals.]]
[[File:20190918 135630.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use a crimp tool for insulated terminals like this to crimp the fork terminals onto the ends of the wires. Ensure that the labelling heat shrink doesn't fall off. Use a ratcheting crimp tool like this with a good quality die. Do not use a non-ratcheting crimp tool made from two pieces of stamped steel.]]
[[File:20190918 135819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut back the voltage sense wires about 50 mm and strip about 5 mm.]]
[[File:20190918 140019.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut the pre-crimped DF-11 jumper cables in half and trim to about 20 mm longer than the off-cuts from the voltage sense wires (a length of about 70 mm). Strip about 5 mm from the ends of the jumper wires.]]
[[File:20190918 140158.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the stripped ends of the voltage sense wires and jumper wires.]]
[[File:20190918 140254.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Join the wires and reflow the solder with the soldering iron.]]
[[File:20190918 140334.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|The joints should look something like this.]]
[[File:20190918 124812.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut out the centre material.]]

File:20190918 141031.jpg

2019-10-24T17:25:15Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140948.jpg

2019-10-24T17:23:11Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140939.jpg

2019-10-24T17:23:03Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140828.jpg

2019-10-24T17:21:58Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140709.jpg

2019-10-24T17:21:04Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140650.jpg

2019-10-24T17:20:39Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140440.jpg

2019-10-24T17:19:52Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140334.jpg

2019-10-24T17:19:39Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140254.jpg

2019-10-24T17:19:23Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140158.jpg

2019-10-24T17:18:09Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 140019.jpg

2019-10-24T17:17:53Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 135819.jpg

2019-10-24T17:16:33Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 135630.jpg

2019-10-24T17:15:32Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 135624.jpg

2019-10-24T17:14:34Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 125102.jpg

2019-10-24T17:13:49Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 124842.jpg

2019-10-24T17:13:30Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 125003.jpg

2019-10-24T17:13:17Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 124812.jpg

2019-10-24T17:11:59Z

Robert Howie:

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T17:10:44Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 124749.jpg

2019-10-24T17:09:18Z

Robert Howie:

20190918 124749

File:20190918 124546.jpg

2019-10-24T17:07:51Z

Robert Howie:

20190918 124546

File:20190918 123806.jpg

2019-10-24T17:05:47Z

Robert Howie:

20190918 123806

File:20190918 123756.jpg

2019-10-24T16:56:02Z

Robert Howie:

20190918 123756

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T16:54:49Z

Robert Howie:

File:20190918 123729.jpg

2019-10-24T15:45:47Z

Robert Howie:

20190918 123729

File:20190918 123725.jpg

2019-10-24T15:12:21Z

Robert Howie:

20190918 123725

File:20190918 123625.jpg

2019-10-24T15:10:24Z

Robert Howie:

20190918 123625

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T15:06:52Z

Robert Howie:

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T15:06:22Z

Robert Howie:

The power supply recommended for AC powered installations where the observatory is located close to the AC power supply is the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/gst120a Meanwell GST120A12].

For observatories with heaters and long DC power cable runs the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-300 Meanwell HRP-300-12] is recommended as it's remote sense functionality allows it to compensate for any voltage drop in the long cable runs. (If no heaters are present, the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-150 Meanwell HRP-150-12] is the preferred option.)

Direct links to order Meanwell HRP-300-12 from USA:

[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HRP-300-12?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdqMP%2FaZ%252BGCqLV2Ez6D3hU HRP-300-12, Mouser Electronics]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HRP-300-12.shtml HRP-300-12, TRC Electronics]

Accessories for Meanwell HRP-300-12:

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/TRC/TRC-E-HRP300450600.shtml TRC-E-HRP300450600 enclosure for HRP-300-12]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Tumbler/32V86S.shtml US/Canada power cord for HRP-300-12]

[[File:Power supply wiring with remote voltage sense.svg|none|thumb|640x640px|Power supply wiring with remote sense for long cable runs.]]

=== Outdoor Cable ===
The recommended off the shelf for use on roofs or outdoor structures is the sunlight and abrasion resistant AlphaWire EcoFlex PUR 80045 SL005 (unshielded) or 80145 SL005 (braid shield). Digi-Key usually has one or the other in stock: [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80045-SL005/80045SL005-ND/5271247 80045 SL005], [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80145-SL005/80145SL005-ND/5271269 80145 SL005].

That cabling doesn't have a twisted pair, so we recommend wiring up the conductors to the green numbering in the two images below.

[[File:Remote sense cable wiring power supply side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the power supply side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
You should use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2107-blue-3mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/ Blue 3mm Fork Crimps] to terminate the conductors for L,N,E,-V and +V.
This power supply should be installed in a metal enclosure which should be connected via grounding studs to the Earth terminal. The enclosure's door or access panel also needs to be connected.
See the Meanwell HRP datasheet for sense connector details.]]
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring observatory side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the observatory power plug side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
Conductors 1 and 6 will need to be soldered to the side of C and B if thick conductors are used.
The transition from insulated wire to contact needs to be covered by heat shrink to prevent short circuits if the cable subject to twisting torques.]]

=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="200">
File:20190724_212110.jpg|
File:20190724_212620.jpg|
File:20190724_212709.jpg|
</gallery>

=== Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package ===
If you need to build your own long cable with (using the cable listed above) you can request a ''Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package'' from [[Getting Help|us]]. It should contain:
[[File:Long DC cable connector care package.png|none|thumb|920x920px]]
{| class="wikitable"
!Item #
!Part
!Quantity
!Manufacturer
!Manufacturer Part Number
!Example Supplier Link 1
!Example Supplier Link 2
|-
|1
|MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug, 14S-2S insert
|1
|various

(Amphenol Industrial)
|various

(MS4106F-14S-2S-624)
|https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-industrial-operations/MS3106F-14S-2S/MS3106F14S-2S-ND/378649
|https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982465/
|-
|2
|PG13.5 cable gland adaptor for size 14 MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug
|1
|Amphenol Industrial
|97B-14S-PG13.5-624
|DFN Camera Help
|Amphenol Industrial (minimum order quantity will apply)
|-
|3
|PG13.5 cable gland
|1
|various
|various
|https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/cable-and-cord-grips/492?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv121=385758&pv121=385768&sf=1&FV=-8%7C492&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4318A-6-12mm-eg13.5-pg13.5-black-ip68-cable-gland/
|-
|4
|≈10mm length of 3 mm yellow heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|5
|≈10mm length of 3 mm black heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|6
|≈10mm length of 5 mm heatshrink tubing (may be required if 3 mm tubing doesn't fit over contacts "C" and "B")
|0-2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0913a-black-5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|7
|Power supply connector
|1
|Hirose
|DF11-2DS-2C
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/DF11-8DS-2C/H2022-ND/141255
|
|-
|8
|≈10mm length of 3 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|9
|≈10mm length of 1.5 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0910a-black-1.5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|10
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, red, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-R6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-R6/H3BBT-10106-R6-ND/310537
|
|-
|11
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, black, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-B6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-B6/H3BBT-10106-B6-ND/310505
|
|-
|12
|Blue 4 mm fork crimp terminal
|7
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2082a-blue-4mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/
|
|}

=== Long DC Cable Assembly ===
[[File:20190918 114454.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut around cable jacket about 50 mm back from cable end, careful only to cut jacket and do not nick wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114512.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Bend cable and carefully slice away jacket without nicking wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114635.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Pull off jacket to reveal wires.]]
[[File:20190918 114658.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut fibrous centre reinforcement.]]
[[File:20190918 115321.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|End should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 115757.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This sort of wire stripper and cutter is recommended. Ensure it is sharp otherwise you'll have a hard time inserting the mangled conductor into the crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115538.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Trim wires back using wire cutters and place cable gland (without nut) onto cable.]]
[[File:20190918 115612.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place cable gland adaptor on cable and screw together with cable gland.]]
[[File:20190918 115724.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip ends for crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the correct crimp tool for the contacts, or solder the connections. Pliers won't work.]]
[[File:20190918 115819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Set your crimp tool to the correct setting on the coloured wheel on the back (red on ours). Insert your crimp contacts into the tool.]]
[[File:20190918 115836.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Ensure the contact is fully inserted and crimp fully without stopping.]]
[[File:20190918 115848.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This is what a good crimp looks like. Ensure the wire is visible in the hole. If not, then you didn't strip enough insulation of or insert the wire deep enough.]]
[[File:20190918 120819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Crimp the other power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 122415.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing, yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
[[File:20190918 122350.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshink over the wires, taking care to use the correct colours (yellow for +12V and black for GND) and to bundle the voltage sense wires inside the heatshrink with their corresponding power contacts (which they will be soldered to later).]]
[[File:20190918 120735.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the contact insertion tool to push the contacts into the plug.]]
[[File:20190918 122718.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Insert the contacts, grip around the skinny part initially before moving back to the crimp part to avoid bending the contacts. If you do bend the contacts, cut the wires and start again. Do not straighten bent contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 121758.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use our soldering station to solder the voltage sense wires to the power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123025.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place a blob of solder on the side of the crimp part of the two power contacts where the voltage sense wires will be attached.]]
[[File:20190918 123050.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the voltage sense wires.]]
[[File:20190918 122938.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 123119.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Press the wire to the contact with tweezers and reflow the solder to make the connection.]]
[[File:20190918 123215.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this. The solder joints should look smoother and shinier than this though.]]
[[File:20190918 123318.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Push the heatshrink tubing up to cover the contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123427.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use a hot air station to shrink the heatshink tubing. You can use a hot air gun or a lighter instead.]]
[[File:20190918 123442.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Shrink the tubing with hot air. Take care not to melt the insulation.]]
Your connector should now look like this:

=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="300">
File:20190918_123513.jpg|
File:20190918_123550.jpg|
File:20190918_123612.jpg|
</gallery>

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T15:05:56Z

Robert Howie: /* Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada */

The power supply recommended for AC powered installations where the observatory is located close to the AC power supply is the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/gst120a Meanwell GST120A12].

For observatories with heaters and long DC power cable runs the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-300 Meanwell HRP-300-12] is recommended as it's remote sense functionality allows it to compensate for any voltage drop in the long cable runs. (If no heaters are present, the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-150 Meanwell HRP-150-12] is the preferred option.)

Direct links to order Meanwell HRP-300-12 from USA:

[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HRP-300-12?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdqMP%2FaZ%252BGCqLV2Ez6D3hU HRP-300-12, Mouser Electronics]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HRP-300-12.shtml HRP-300-12, TRC Electronics]

Accessories for Meanwell HRP-300-12:

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/TRC/TRC-E-HRP300450600.shtml TRC-E-HRP300450600 enclosure for HRP-300-12]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Tumbler/32V86S.shtml US/Canada power cord for HRP-300-12]

[[File:Power supply wiring with remote voltage sense.svg|none|thumb|640x640px|Power supply wiring with remote sense for long cable runs.]]

=== Outdoor Cable ===
The recommended off the shelf for use on roofs or outdoor structures is the sunlight and abrasion resistant AlphaWire EcoFlex PUR 80045 SL005 (unshielded) or 80145 SL005 (braid shield). Digi-Key usually has one or the other in stock: [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80045-SL005/80045SL005-ND/5271247 80045 SL005], [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80145-SL005/80145SL005-ND/5271269 80145 SL005].

That cabling doesn't have a twisted pair, so we recommend wiring up the conductors to the green numbering in the two images below.

[[File:Remote sense cable wiring power supply side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the power supply side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
You should use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2107-blue-3mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/ Blue 3mm Fork Crimps] to terminate the conductors for L,N,E,-V and +V.
This power supply should be installed in a metal enclosure which should be connected via grounding studs to the Earth terminal. The enclosure's door or access panel also needs to be connected.
See the Meanwell HRP datasheet for sense connector details.]]
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring observatory side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the observatory power plug side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
Conductors 1 and 6 will need to be soldered to the side of C and B if thick conductors are used.
The transition from insulated wire to contact needs to be covered by heat shrink to prevent short circuits if the cable subject to twisting torques.]]

=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="200">
File:20190724_212110.jpg|
File:20190724_212620.jpg|
File:20190724_212709.jpg|
</gallery>

=== Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package ===
If you need to build your own long cable with (using the cable listed above) you can request a ''Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package'' from [[Getting Help|us]]. It should contain:
[[File:Long DC cable connector care package.png|none|thumb|920x920px]]
{| class="wikitable"
!Item #
!Part
!Quantity
!Manufacturer
!Manufacturer Part Number
!Example Supplier Link 1
!Example Supplier Link 2
|-
|1
|MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug, 14S-2S insert
|1
|various

(Amphenol Industrial)
|various

(MS4106F-14S-2S-624)
|https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-industrial-operations/MS3106F-14S-2S/MS3106F14S-2S-ND/378649
|https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982465/
|-
|2
|PG13.5 cable gland adaptor for size 14 MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug
|1
|Amphenol Industrial
|97B-14S-PG13.5-624
|DFN Camera Help
|Amphenol Industrial (minimum order quantity will apply)
|-
|3
|PG13.5 cable gland
|1
|various
|various
|https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/cable-and-cord-grips/492?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv121=385758&pv121=385768&sf=1&FV=-8%7C492&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4318A-6-12mm-eg13.5-pg13.5-black-ip68-cable-gland/
|-
|4
|≈10mm length of 3 mm yellow heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|5
|≈10mm length of 3 mm black heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|6
|≈10mm length of 5 mm heatshrink tubing (may be required if 3 mm tubing doesn't fit over contacts "C" and "B")
|0-2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0913a-black-5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|7
|Power supply connector
|1
|Hirose
|DF11-2DS-2C
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/DF11-8DS-2C/H2022-ND/141255
|
|-
|8
|≈10mm length of 3 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|9
|≈10mm length of 1.5 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0910a-black-1.5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|10
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, red, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-R6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-R6/H3BBT-10106-R6-ND/310537
|
|-
|11
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, black, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-B6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-B6/H3BBT-10106-B6-ND/310505
|
|-
|12
|Blue 4 mm fork crimp terminal
|7
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2082a-blue-4mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/
|
|}

=== Long DC Cable Assembly ===
[[File:20190918 114454.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut around cable jacket about 50 mm back from cable end, careful only to cut jacket and do not nick wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114512.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Bend cable and carefully slice away jacket without nicking wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114635.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Pull off jacket to reveal wires.]]
[[File:20190918 114658.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut fibrous centre reinforcement.]]
[[File:20190918 115321.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|End should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 115757.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This sort of wire stripper and cutter is recommended. Ensure it is sharp otherwise you'll have a hard time inserting the mangled conductor into the crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115538.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Trim wires back using wire cutters and place cable gland (without nut) onto cable.]]
[[File:20190918 115612.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place cable gland adaptor on cable and screw together with cable gland.]]
[[File:20190918 115724.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip ends for crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the correct crimp tool for the contacts, or solder the connections. Pliers won't work.]]
[[File:20190918 115819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Set your crimp tool to the correct setting on the coloured wheel on the back (red on ours). Insert your crimp contacts into the tool.]]
[[File:20190918 115836.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Ensure the contact is fully inserted and crimp fully without stopping.]]
[[File:20190918 115848.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This is what a good crimp looks like. Ensure the wire is visible in the hole. If not, then you didn't strip enough insulation of or insert the wire deep enough.]]
[[File:20190918 120819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Crimp the other power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 122415.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing, yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
[[File:20190918 122350.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshink over the wires, taking care to use the correct colours (yellow for +12V and black for GND) and to bundle the voltage sense wires inside the heatshrink with their corresponding power contacts (which they will be soldered to later).]]
[[File:20190918 120735.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the contact insertion tool to push the contacts into the plug.]]
[[File:20190918 122718.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Insert the contacts, grip around the skinny part initially before moving back to the crimp part to avoid bending the contacts. If you do bend the contacts, cut the wires and start again. Do not straighten bent contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 121758.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use our soldering station to solder the voltage sense wires to the power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123025.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place a blob of solder on the side of the crimp part of the two power contacts where the voltage sense wires will be attached.]]
[[File:20190918 123050.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the voltage sense wires.]]
[[File:20190918 122938.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 123119.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Press the wire to the contact with tweezers and reflow the solder to make the connection.]]
[[File:20190918 123215.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this. The solder joints should look smoother and shinier than this though.]]
[[File:20190918 123318.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Push the heatshrink tubing up to cover the contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123427.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use a hot air station to shrink the heatshink tubing. You can use a hot air gun or a lighter instead.]]
[[File:20190918 123442.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Shrink the tubing with hot air. Take care not to melt the insulation.]]
Your connector should now look like this:

=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="400">
File:20190918_123513.jpg|
File:20190918_123550.jpg|
File:20190918_123612.jpg|
</gallery>

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T15:05:18Z

Robert Howie:

The power supply recommended for AC powered installations where the observatory is located close to the AC power supply is the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/gst120a Meanwell GST120A12].

For observatories with heaters and long DC power cable runs the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-300 Meanwell HRP-300-12] is recommended as it's remote sense functionality allows it to compensate for any voltage drop in the long cable runs. (If no heaters are present, the [https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/hrp-150 Meanwell HRP-150-12] is the preferred option.)

Direct links to order Meanwell HRP-300-12 from USA:

[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HRP-300-12?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdqMP%2FaZ%252BGCqLV2Ez6D3hU HRP-300-12, Mouser Electronics]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HRP-300-12.shtml HRP-300-12, TRC Electronics]

Accessories for Meanwell HRP-300-12:

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/TRC/TRC-E-HRP300450600.shtml TRC-E-HRP300450600 enclosure for HRP-300-12]

[https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Tumbler/32V86S.shtml US/Canada power cord for HRP-300-12]

[[File:Power supply wiring with remote voltage sense.svg|none|thumb|640x640px|Power supply wiring with remote sense for long cable runs.]]

=== Outdoor Cable ===
The recommended off the shelf for use on roofs or outdoor structures is the sunlight and abrasion resistant AlphaWire EcoFlex PUR 80045 SL005 (unshielded) or 80145 SL005 (braid shield). Digi-Key usually has one or the other in stock: [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80045-SL005/80045SL005-ND/5271247 80045 SL005], [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/alpha-wire/80145-SL005/80145SL005-ND/5271269 80145 SL005].

That cabling doesn't have a twisted pair, so we recommend wiring up the conductors to the green numbering in the two images below.

[[File:Remote sense cable wiring power supply side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the power supply side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
You should use [https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2107-blue-3mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/ Blue 3mm Fork Crimps] to terminate the conductors for L,N,E,-V and +V.
This power supply should be installed in a metal enclosure which should be connected via grounding studs to the Earth terminal. The enclosure's door or access panel also needs to be connected.
See the Meanwell HRP datasheet for sense connector details.]]
[[File:Remote sense cable wiring observatory side.jpg|none|thumb|640x640px|Recommended wiring on the observatory power plug side for a 6 or 7 conductor cable (twisted pair will most likely not be present in off-the-shelf cables)
Conductors 1 and 6 will need to be soldered to the side of C and B if thick conductors are used.
The transition from insulated wire to contact needs to be covered by heat shrink to prevent short circuits if the cable subject to twisting torques.]]

=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="200">
File:20190724_212110.jpg|
File:20190724_212620.jpg|
File:20190724_212709.jpg|
</gallery>

=== Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package ===
If you need to build your own long cable with (using the cable listed above) you can request a ''Long DC Cable Run Connector Care Package'' from [[Getting Help|us]]. It should contain:
[[File:Long DC cable connector care package.png|none|thumb|920x920px]]
{| class="wikitable"
!Item #
!Part
!Quantity
!Manufacturer
!Manufacturer Part Number
!Example Supplier Link 1
!Example Supplier Link 2
|-
|1
|MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug, 14S-2S insert
|1
|various

(Amphenol Industrial)
|various

(MS4106F-14S-2S-624)
|https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-industrial-operations/MS3106F-14S-2S/MS3106F14S-2S-ND/378649
|https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/2982465/
|-
|2
|PG13.5 cable gland adaptor for size 14 MIL-DTL-5015 compatible plug
|1
|Amphenol Industrial
|97B-14S-PG13.5-624
|DFN Camera Help
|Amphenol Industrial (minimum order quantity will apply)
|-
|3
|PG13.5 cable gland
|1
|various
|various
|https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/cable-and-cord-grips/492?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv121=385758&pv121=385768&sf=1&FV=-8%7C492&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h4318A-6-12mm-eg13.5-pg13.5-black-ip68-cable-gland/
|-
|4
|≈10mm length of 3 mm yellow heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|5
|≈10mm length of 3 mm black heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|6
|≈10mm length of 5 mm heatshrink tubing (may be required if 3 mm tubing doesn't fit over contacts "C" and "B")
|0-2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0913a-black-5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|7
|Power supply connector
|1
|Hirose
|DF11-2DS-2C
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/DF11-8DS-2C/H2022-ND/141255
|
|-
|8
|≈10mm length of 3 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0912a-black-3mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|9
|≈10mm length of 1.5 mm heatshrink tubing
|2
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/w0910a-black-1.5mm-heatshrink-1.2m-length/
|
|-
|10
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, red, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-R6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-R6/H3BBT-10106-R6-ND/310537
|
|-
|11
|DF-11 pre crimped jumper cable, black, cut in half
|1
|Hirose
|H3BBT-10106-B6
|https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/H3BBT-10106-B6/H3BBT-10106-B6-ND/310505
|
|-
|12
|Blue 4 mm fork crimp terminal
|7
|various
|various
|https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2082a-blue-4mm-fork-crimp-pk-100/
|
|}

=== Long DC Cable Assembly ===
[[File:20190918 114454.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut around cable jacket about 50 mm back from cable end, careful only to cut jacket and do not nick wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114512.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Bend cable and carefully slice away jacket without nicking wire insulation. If you do nick wire insulation, cut off section and start again.]]
[[File:20190918 114635.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Pull off jacket to reveal wires.]]
[[File:20190918 114658.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut fibrous centre reinforcement.]]
[[File:20190918 115321.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|End should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 115757.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This sort of wire stripper and cutter is recommended. Ensure it is sharp otherwise you'll have a hard time inserting the mangled conductor into the crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115538.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Trim wires back using wire cutters and place cable gland (without nut) onto cable.]]
[[File:20190918 115612.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place cable gland adaptor on cable and screw together with cable gland.]]
[[File:20190918 115724.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Strip ends for crimp contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 115806.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the correct crimp tool for the contacts, or solder the connections. Pliers won't work.]]
[[File:20190918 115819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Set your crimp tool to the correct setting on the coloured wheel on the back (red on ours). Insert your crimp contacts into the tool.]]
[[File:20190918 115836.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Ensure the contact is fully inserted and crimp fully without stopping.]]
[[File:20190918 115848.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|This is what a good crimp looks like. Ensure the wire is visible in the hole. If not, then you didn't strip enough insulation of or insert the wire deep enough.]]
[[File:20190918 120819.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Crimp the other power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 122415.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Cut ≈10 mm lengths of 3 or 5 mm heatshrink tubing, yellow for +12V and black for GND.]]
[[File:20190918 122350.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place the heatshink over the wires, taking care to use the correct colours (yellow for +12V and black for GND) and to bundle the voltage sense wires inside the heatshrink with their corresponding power contacts (which they will be soldered to later).]]
[[File:20190918 120735.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Use the contact insertion tool to push the contacts into the plug.]]
[[File:20190918 122718.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Insert the contacts, grip around the skinny part initially before moving back to the crimp part to avoid bending the contacts. If you do bend the contacts, cut the wires and start again. Do not straighten bent contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 121758.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use our soldering station to solder the voltage sense wires to the power contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123025.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Place a blob of solder on the side of the crimp part of the two power contacts where the voltage sense wires will be attached.]]
[[File:20190918 123050.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Tin the voltage sense wires.]]
[[File:20190918 122938.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this.]]
[[File:20190918 123119.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Press the wire to the contact with tweezers and reflow the solder to make the connection.]]
[[File:20190918 123215.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Your connector should now look like this. The solder joints should look smoother and shinier than this though.]]
[[File:20190918 123318.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Push the heatshrink tubing up to cover the contacts.]]
[[File:20190918 123427.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|We will now use a hot air station to shrink the heatshink tubing. You can use a hot air gun or a lighter instead.]]
[[File:20190918 123442.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|Shrink the tubing with hot air. Take care not to melt the insulation.]]
Your connector should now look like this:

=== Mathias Research Ranch Installation in Alberta, Canada ===
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</gallery>

File:20190918 123550.jpg

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Robert Howie:

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Robert Howie:

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2019-10-24T15:03:13Z

Robert Howie:

AC Power Supply

2019-10-24T15:00:33Z

Robert Howie:

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2019-10-24T14:59:15Z

Robert Howie:

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Robert Howie:

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Robert Howie:

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Robert Howie:

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2019-10-24T14:52:49Z

Robert Howie:

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